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Fiume

  • Restaurants
  • Battersea
  • price 2 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  1. Thomas Alexander
    Thomas Alexander
  2. Thomas Alexander
    Thomas Alexander
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Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

A southern Italian restaurant on the riverside.

In a beautiful riverside location, new restaurant Fiume knocks out proper southern Italian nosh, with a menu designed by Francesco Mazzei (ex-L’Anima, also overseeing Sartoria and Radici). Warmly lit, on the night of my visit the cavernous room was packed with well-heeled clientele – after all, two-bed flats go for £1.5m in this part of the Battersea Power Station redevelopment. Jackets and open-collared shirts are de rigueur.

Much of the food here was exceptional. Delicious cod croquette snacks broke and oozed at the merest touch. I can’t stop thinking about the crab, which had been lightly laced with mint and topped with a bacon-flavoured crumb. Best of all was the stringy, addictive zucchini fritti.

But let’s deal with the elephant in the room. Because you can be a beautiful riverside Italian restaurant, and you can serve perfect food presented by an impeccable waiting team – but if your kitchen’s timing is out you’re stuffed. Our mains took 40 minutes to arrive at the table, and the sides took 55 – whatever you eat at the end of it, that kind of wait ruins your evening.

Comps and apologies were offered, but come on Fiume, you can do better. 

Written by
Dave Faulkner

Details

Address:
Circus West Village
Sopwith Way
Battersea
London
SW8 4NN
Transport:
Battersea Park rail
Price:
Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.
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