Hidden away on a quiet mews, Fortitude Bakery is a pared-back, unassuming spot with a few outdoor tables and a small selection of baked goods. There are no loaves (except occasionally soda bread): Fortitude’s USP is sourdough cakes. Slow-fermented dough is brought to life with flavours like orange and poppyseed, banana and bilberry, even fermented apple and nutmeg. These loaf-shaped cakes are supplemented by morning buns, sausage rolls and cheese scones; plus a popular Berber omelette, served stuffed into a batbout (Moroccan pitta).
Though it all looked a treat, flavours were a mixed bag. A plum and custard morning bun was glorious – moist but with bite, and generously sized. Also special was the sticky bun (or ‘snail’); fans of babka will love this swirl of doughy goodness. But the loaf cakes tasted too worthy – especially if you’re expecting a regular one. The vegan chocolate and berry wasn’t chocolatey or fruity enough, and a boiled orange and almond option had zing, but the texture was claggy.
In short – if you’re after cream, icing, indulgent toppings and all-round dietary sin, go elsewhere; come here instead for the friendly welcome, brilliant artisanal coffee and to experience slow-ferment baking.