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Four Winters (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Ice-cream parlours Soho

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Four Winters has now closed. Time Out Food editors, April 2019.

Four Winters is an ice cream parlour with a rather unusual secret ingredient: liquid nitrogen. They’ve patented a special machine that freezes ice cream to order with a blast of the gas. Don’t panic. It all sounds nuttier than it actually is at this, Four Winters’ small, bright Soho branch. Yes, it’s a bit weird watching your ice cream billow clouds of gas as it’s frozen in that patented machine – but said contraption looks a bit like a standard Magimix, really, and the staff doing the freezing are wearing hairnets. There’s nothing less glamorous and more stoically familiar than a hairnet.

But what does nitrogen-laced ice cream taste like? Pretty much like normal ice cream, if a tad smoother. Four Winters do a changing ‘seasonal’ offering as well as year-round specials, and the best flavour I tried was a tart, zingy passionfruit on the spring menu. Also excellent was a rich and nutty peanut ‘butter cup’ shake.

The only disappointment was a rather cheap-tasting chocolate ice cream, which was too much like something you might hoover up at a kid’s birthday party and then deeply regret. Everything else was good though, and you’ve got to love the novelty nitrogen. And the hairnets.



Address: 53 Brewer Street
Transport: Tube: Piccadilly Circus
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