Grillstock

Rocking up with a readymade look that’s surely destined for a rollout, Grillstock is a US-style smokehouse with branches in Bristol and Bath, which also hosts festivals of ‘meat, music and mayhem’ around the country. (Please note that Grillstock is a family-friendly event: actual mayhem not guaranteed.)

The dusty-roadside-shack decor goes the whole hog, with corrugated iron walls, chain-link-fence detailing and food served on metal trays. That food, as you’d expect, is a marathon of meat: ribs, brisket, burger, burnt ends, pulled pork, hot dogs, chilli, wings… In the American South, vegetarianism is a lifestyle choice that can be cured by prayer. At least in theory.

This type of slow and low cooking is copied all over London but only a few places have mastered what is a real art, Pitt Cue Co, Hotbox among them, some vans and pop-ups. Grillstock has the kit – a massive smoker dominates the open kitchen – but the food is decent rather than lip-smackingly, tooth-pickingly, finger-wipingly brilliant as barbecue can be. It’s good value though, with pulled pork and all the sides (slaw, fries, pickles and bread) just £9.

Aside from a confused ordering system (at the bar, then sit down and wait for drinks/food to be delivered to table), Grillstock is well thought-out and fun, and will appeal to families looking for something a bit edgier than the High Street offerings. The authentically whooping and hollering experience this may not be, but this is East 17, not East Texas.