You’ll find Julie’s at the very nexus of the Richard Curtis/Paddington axis of twee, where the smell of wisteria is so pungent it’s as if Jo Malone herself has piped it in.
Opened on a residential Holland Park street in 1969 by Julie Hodgess, an interior designer who kitted out stores for high-end hippy fashion house Biba, her restaurant set the template for bohemian west London with stained glass, expensive antiques and fabrics bold enough to make your grandma blush. Over the next few decades Julie’s attracted grizzled rockers and glossy It girls alike. It was the kind of place where you imagine Patsy and Eddie from Ab Fab would get slaughtered on Bolly, while real life celebs of the Tina Turner, Princess Diana, Mick Jagger, Paul McCartney and Kate Moss ilk were regulars.
Owen Kenworthy's menu at Julie’s straddles the line between bistro staples and cheffy flair, with no room for passing fads
The latest incarnation of Julie’s doubles down on the fabulous interiors, with fresh chintz, chicly mismatched furnishings and staff in Laura Ashley-esque outfits complete with frilled necklines. Back in the day, Julie’s was known more for a good time than a good feed, but new owner Tara MacBain is doing her best to change all that with help from chef patron Owen Kenworthy. After proving himself at both Brawn and The Pelican, his menu at Julie’s straddles the line between bistro staples and cheffy flair, with no room for passing fads. Burrata is banned. Avocado has been 86’d. Take for example a ‘snack’ of pea panisse, a fat, Kermit green fritter heady with Cornish gouda, or a starter of chilled cucumber and nettle soup with hidden, crunchy sourdough crumbs. Both feel deeply 1970s in a folksy Fairport Convention kind of way, but maintain a rather more modern and un-shouty gracefulness. Kenworthy is evidently proud of his produce too; a starter of asparagus is simply that; chunky spears with nothing more than pecorino and butter to add extra gloss.
Mains hark back to the glory days of Julie’s, with lobster souffle, sole meuniere, and moules au roquefort all providing vintage rock star sustenance. I plump for an engagingly creamy crab and scallop tortellini, with a boisterous brown shrimp and beurre blanc sauce. Onglet bordelaise is how it should be; terrifically tender. Finally, the food at Julie’s is as gossip-worthy as the guests.
The vibe The very vision of a Bohemian west London bistro.
The food Classic 1970s standards, tarted up by chef patron Owen Kenworthy.
The drink Martinis are a must, but there is a serious wine list as well. Don’t be shy.
Time Out tip Inside might be stunning, but the pedestrianised terrace out front is where you’ll find Holland Park’s finest. Join them!