With its patterned patio flooring, leafy greenery and vast streams of sunshine, Kinz has the Eastern Mediterranean in its soul. More than just a place for Lebanese food, the triple-height space encourages a celebratory atmosphere as far as can be from the building’s previous life as a cold-hearted bank.
Creamy, slick hummus was dappled with tickly spice
Founded by Jad Lahoud, Karim Lahoud and Rasha Khouri Bruzzo (co-owner of nearby Palestinian restaurant Akub), Kinz is an all-day brasserie with Lebanese dishes and wine from independent producers, lavishly spiced cocktails and transportive photographs of the country.
Dinner is a offering of classic small dishes (fatayer, rikakat), larger plates (fatteh, kibbeh), salads and mashawi grilled skewers. In true mezze style, food arrived just minutes after being ordered, our table suddenly populated with over half a dozen handsomely-presented plates: elegant swirls of hummus, plump discs of pitta, neat parcels of pastry, a rich, green bowl of tabouleh, cheese impaled on grand skewers.
Any worries that speed might equal slapdash were quickly hushed. Highlights of Lebanese cuisine are often humble, and so were Kinz’s most impressive dishes: the creamy, slick hummus was dappled with tickly spice and baba ganoush combined earthy aubergine with tart pomegranate. Fat chunks of halloumi were miraculously un-squeaky, complemented by a fresh coriander dip, and the cheese rikakat and spinach fatayer were fragrant, well-crisped and just greasy enough.
Nothing was bland, but a couple of dishes were a touch overpowered. The tabouleh’s rough foliage loudly collided with tangy lemon, outweighing the tomato garnish and pretty much everything else. The cabbage mehshi’s stuffed leaves varied from parcel to parcel: some were balanced bundles of meticulously textured crunch, others were forcefully minty.
In short, there’s plenty of excellence at Kinz. Indulge in a sumac- or chamomile-infused cocktail. Order a bottle of the outstanding Bekaa Valley house white. Finish with a Lebanese coffee and slice of fabulously gloopy chocolate cake.
The vibe East Mediterranean magic in a former branch of Lloyds Bank in Notting Hill.
The food A concise but still very-hard-to-choose-from selection of classic Lebanese dishes, from baba ganoush to kibbeh.
The drink Cocktails infused with herbs and spices, plus a wine list running the full gamut of Lebanon’s vineyard regions.
Time Out tip Who hasn’t wanted to see the inside of a bank vault? This one has been transformed into a bar area for a post-meal drink.