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Kitchen Table

Restaurants, Contemporary European Fitzrovia
5 out of 5 stars
 (Photo credit: Paul Winch-Furness)
Photo credit: Paul Winch-Furness

Time Out says

5 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

First things first. This isn’t any old kitchen table. It’s a table in a restaurant kitchen. And it’s not even a table. It’s actually a U-shaped counter. One that you’ll find down in the bowels of hip Fitzrovia champagne bar Bubbledogs (which teams fizz from indie growers with gourmet hot dogs), with a small but serious professional kitchen at its centre.

But don’t be thinking you’ll find any dogs here: Kitchen Table is a completely different pooch. We’re talking a no-choice line-up of modernist, meticulous, micro-sized plates of food, each more dazzling than the one before. The menu is intentionally enigmatic (they email you the details afterwards), with one-word descriptions like ‘oyster’, ‘chicken’, or ‘gooseberry’. Which might in fact be oyster with a delicate elderflower granita and drips of smoked oil; a finger sarnie of chicken skin with nobbly bacon bits and a rosemary-infused mascarpone (like a pimped club sandwich); or yoghurt parfait with a sharp gooseberry coulis on a frozen plate. Which also had chewy ‘green’ (aka unripe) almonds and flecks of spruce. Because everyone needs a bit of fir tree in their pud.

But despite the high-falutin’ cooking, it’s neither formal or hushed. In fact, perhaps the best thing about Kitchen Table, other than the two-Michelin-starred food, is the setting. Somewhere between log cabin and warehouse (industrial girders, rustic wood, leather), the air is thick with rocking tunes and plenty of smoke. Plus a team led by Noma-trained James Knappett, a star chef actually cooking in his own kitchen and talking to his guests.

Be warned: the bill will make you cry, but for something seriously special, and very cool, it’s worth it. 


Address: 70 Charlotte St
Transport: Tube: Goodge St tube
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £380.
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