Kumori is a classy place. A flimsy fabric sheet dances in the breeze of their (very good) aircon above a long granite counter, while the rest of this elegant dreamspace is bathed in a hazy purple light. It feels more like an expensive spa than a restaurant, but we’re quickly reminded it’s time for lunch rather than a facial as we’re handed a tick-box menu and a tiny pencil. Like Bao - and 1990s bookies - before it, you can indulge in Battleships-style menu marking before handing it over to your charming server. That’s when the true theatre begins.
There’s no denying the precision of this superior sushi joint
Nominally a handroll bar (but there’s some torched nigiri and various sides, too), at Kumori you can opt for a set menu of three to five handrolls, or choose your own adventure with an a la carte option. Whatever you do, make sure you order what we’re boldly calling ‘the best of the handrolls’; spicy tuna wrapped in Kumori’s custom- made nori and placed on perfectly seasoned rice and laced with surprise crunchy bits. It is divine. The spiciness is more about hearty flavour than brainblasting heat, and were there not a whole range of other options to try, we would have totally ordered another one.
The unagi and foie gras option is sweet and creamy, while yellowtail kosho offers a floral hit of fragrance. Baked crab in a pale soy wrapper might have been a little too sweet for us and the wrapper a little too beige, but there’s no denying the precision of this superior sushi joint. All of Kumori’s temaki rolls are made to order and prepared in front of you, then handed over with slick reverence. Remember to eat yours as soon as you get it, to avoid any potential sogginess. Also remember to order the mini squares of crispy rice topped with tuna, and a couple of the nigiri too, where squeaky salmon belly and fatty tuna are tenderly torched to a state of magnificent meatiness.
If you’re looking for a fast-but-meticulous Soho spot, Kumori might be your new go-to.
The vibe A flashy, modern counter restaurant for Japanese fast food.
The food Superior sushi handrolls.
The drink Classic cocktails with a Japanese twist; yuzu margs, sakura negronis and grape gimlets.
Time Out tip The handroll trio comes in at £25 and makes for an ideal light lunch.