Critically-acclaimed chef Mireille Hayek opened Em Sherif in Beirut in 2011, promising nostalgia and elegance in equal measure. The restaurant’s success has led to openings across the Middle East, and the first branch outside of the region opened at Harrods in London in 2021. It isn’t cheap, but the utterly harmonious hummus may be the best you’ll ever eat, and the food in general is exceptionally refined. There is an immaculate attention to detail in each dish, with departure from traditional recipes only emerging in thoughtful twists, like the bright kick of sumac and sweetness of confit onion inside the kibbeh sajiyeh. Flavours are powerful and intense and yet always wonderfully balanced, such as in the enticing smokiness of mouttabal tempered by the marine sweetness of prawns, and the sapid spicing on the fish shawarma, which doesn’t mask the delicate flavour of the seabass. Except for the hummus (worth ordering with masterfully toasted pine nuts on top), the tender whole grilled baby chicken is the star of the show, with a marinade, char, and accompanying sauce of velvety toum that will make you want to go back for more.
Time out tip Save yourself for dessert because the signature rice pudding and ice cream with cotton candy are playful and surprising in equal measure.