Meet the chefs serving Londoners bowls of comfort this winter

'I always broke the rules,' laughs Sugen Gopaul, founder of Malaysian street food favourite Roti King, 'When I came to the UK, that was hard [as] there was a real set way of doing things.' But it was Gopaul’s rebellious streak that propelled him forward in turning a humble food stall into a roti empire that now spans six outposts around London and the rest of the UK. 'One day, someone asked me, "Do you know how to cook curry? Can you make a roti?" I could! And that was where it all began,' he says. Nowadays, Gopaul and his team combine classic Malaysian-inspired recipes with more modern techniques: 'Typically, in Malaysia, they rest the roti dough for a very long time. We make it fresh to order instead; it's just our way of finding balance in making sure every customer is really happy with their roti.'

Chef Sugen's top dish pick: The Mee Goring noodle bowl, with the cheese and spinach roti coming in close second.

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Sanjugo founder and chef Jerry didn’t spend much time cooking growing up: 'All I did was make myself breakfast,' he says. But that all changed when he was waiting tables at one of London’s top sushi spots. Awestruck by the respect the head chefs received for their craft, he was keen to learn the ropes himself. Following world-class sushi training from those same chefs, in 2016, Jerry struck out on his own – and Sanjugo Shoreditch was born. Now with three restaurants under his belt, Jerry’s loyal customer base has grown alongside the brand. 'I’ve seen our youngest customers go from little kids to university students,’ he smiles, ‘That’s what reminds me that Sanjugo isn’t just for me.'

Chef Jerry's top dish pick: Wagyu beef roll with fresh Kizami wasabi and truffle butter.

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Behind The Salad Kitchen's constantly evolving menu is head chef Gustavo, whose flair for recipe development and love of food saw him pivot from chemical engineering to the culinary world back when he was just a student. And now, after almost 20 years in the industry – working at five-star hotels in his home country of Brazil, opening his own restaurants in Italy, and even heading up the kitchen in one of London's most popular chicken joints – you have Gustavo to thank for The Salad Kitchen's ultra innovative flavour combos. 'My whole thing is fusion,' he says, 'I just love trying new ingredients together and seeing what works.'

Chef Gustavo's top dish pick: The Crunch Box salad with the marinade of the week.

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When he arrived in the UK from Brazil back in the mid-2010s, Açai Berry's founder, Marcus Carmo, couldn’t find açai – the vibrant purple superfood native to his home country – anywhere in London. 'I could find great Brazilian food – but no açai. I missed it!' he explains. That all changed when Carmo opened Açai Berry in 2017, introducing the 'highest concentration of acai to every bowl'. Cut to today, and despite the arrival of 10 stores (and counting!) Carmo and the team still prioritise the quality of their ingredients above all. 'We even make our own peanut butter,' he says proudly.

Marcus' top dish pick: The Classic with peanut butter, banana, strawberries and granola.

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Though a self-proclaimed 'huge ramen fan' who 'really likes food', chef Henry, found preparing some of London’s best noodles in the kitchen of Kanada-Ya's cosy Covent Garden branch, 'never thought [he] was going to be a chef'. Instead, his passion for cooking – particularly Japanese cuisine – arrived later, when he was working as a kitchen porter. He began to learn the basics of what makes authentic (not to mention delicious) ramen; principles he still follows closely in his work. His secret ingredient for the perfect bowl? It has to be tare, all the way from Japan. This ultra-concentrated flavour base gives each and every steaming hot bowl Henry prepares just the right complexity, with a taste-bud-tantalising umami flavour.

Chef Henry's top dish pick: The Pork Loin Ramen.

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Holy Cow founder Kul Acharya is a passionate man. From the way he treats his staff – he encourages them to ‘enjoy themselves’ and ‘have a laugh’ in his kitchens – to the way he prepares his authentic Indian dishes – each ‘cooked with love’ – the enthusiasm he pours into his craft is unmissable. It's no surprise, then, that since first opening in 2006, Holy Cow now boasts eight spots around the capital. Of course, customers return time and time again due to the team’s approach to quality at every step – from homemade masala to the freshest ingredients, via simple, authentic recipes that let the flavours of each dish truly sing. 

Chef Kul's top dish pick: The Parbat Lamb, cooked with khoja.

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Born and raised in Xi'an, China, chef Liang Li followed in his 'celebrity chef' father's footsteps, working in kitchens around his home city for over 10 years before coming to London on the hunt for new opportunities. Here, Li kicked off his UK cheffing career at Barshu, before venturing out on his own in 2017. Today, he is the proud founder, owner and head chef of Xi'an Impression, where traditional northwest Chinese cuisine is served across four restaurants. What makes his restaurants so special? The 'time-consuming' prep that goes into the food. 'There is no secret [to it], the traditional way is my top tip,' adds Liang Li.

Chef Liang Li's top dish pick: The Xi'an Biangbiang Noodles.

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