These capacious corner premises on a busy junction have seen profound changes since they first housed the Roxy caff. For many years the business operated as Sagoo & Takhar, a Punjabi canteen, but though the takeaway counter remains, two adjoining rooms now house a highly presentable restaurant. Polite black-clad waiters flit purposefully between tables full of local families, many of them Sikhs.
Know the strengths of Punjabi cuisine, and you’re likely to receive food of rare excellence. Choose a tandoori dish to start. Tandoori fish was succulent and tender beneath its tangy seared surface – far better than the slightly chewy golgappa (puffed poori shells to be filled with chickpeas, tamarind relish and mint water). Likewise, order thick, savoury Punjabi curries as a main course – the moreish dahl, or chicken methi full of flavoursome thigh meat and abundant fenugreek leaves – and accompany them with one of an outstanding array of breads (the tissue-thin roomali roti and the onion kulcha are recommended).
Smart, light furnishings and striking modern art also show how far the Roxy has travelled since its greasy-spoon days.