No 67 (CLOSED)

Please note, No 67 has now closed. It has been replaced by The Habit, which also has a Nunhead site. Time Out Food editors, August 2017.

As you’d expect of a gallery eaterie, No 67 is a bright, soaring space, with huge windows for natural light and a curvy, billowing garden flanked by more seating. Even more gratifyingly, the place doesn’t just trade on its looks. The food is lovely, and pretty good value, especially the three-course dinner for £22 on Wednesday and Thursday. With seasonal treats on the set menu, such as a golden-crumbed asparagus with hollandaise, or courgette, pea and artichoke risotto – and lemon posset, chocolate and Calvados mousse or a cheeseboard for pudding – this is pretty much the perfect treat for a summer’s evening.

On the lunch menu, a seasonal soup is always on offer (we enjoyed spinach and potato), then there’s the locally famous date and walnut welsh rarebit with pickles and salad. The meze is a vivid palette of rubious, slightly bitter, nutmeggy beetroot purée, emerald-flecked tsatsiki, golden hazelnut bulgar with ribbons of red pepper, and glossy black and green olives; they were artfully arranged on a white plate withal, and framed by several slices of griddled bread streaked with olive oil.

The cake selection included dark horses such as a nitrate-rich beetroot and a gluten-free brownie, but we were glad to sample the almond and strawberry tart – the pastry was a crisp, buttery revelation. Impressive on all fronts.