Time Out says
An all-day British brasserie from the team behind The Shed and Rabbit.
‘Farm to plate dining’. This has become such a ubiquitous concept, it must be due its own emoji. But at this Battersea restaurant, the description is actually legit. Almost every major ingredient, from the meat, fish and veg, right down to the award-winning wine, comes from one little patch of West Sussex called Nutbourne. If an ingredient does have to come from elsewhere (horrors!), then it’s either foraged, or sourced from another small regional supplier. The Gladwins – aka the trio of brothers whose farm it is – also own and run the restaurant. Yup, I’d say that was fairly farm to plate.
For those of you familiar with Nutbourne’s critically-acclaimed siblings (The Shed in Notting Hill, Rabbit in Chelsea), the set-up here is a little different. Out go the trendy small plates, in comes a more conventional set-up, organised around starters, mains and puds. There’s weekend brunch, Sunday lunch. The team are ruddy-cheeked and affable. It’s basically a best-of-Blighty all-day brasserie: jolly, rather than radical.
Pride of place in the open kitchen is a wood grill. The Gladwins are famed for serving top-notch meat and deservedly so: the beetroot-and-yoghurt-marinated pork steak was juicy, bouncy as a castle and full of flavour. It was also as tall as it was wide, which you’ve got to love.
But the real surprise? The salads. In the global league table of leaf-organisers, us Brits aren’t exactly the standard bearers. Songwriting, we can do. Acting, too. Salad? Not so much. But by lightly borrowing from other culinary styles, the Gladwins have taken our native ingredients and given them genuine oomph. Example: a tumble of shredded brussels sprouts studded with creamy cheddar and crunchy granola, then topped with slices of sweet, ripe pear. Result: a riot of a cheesy, nutty cabbage dish to convert brussels-haters everywhere.
Or my favourite, the British super-grain salad (they’ve called it a ‘tabbouleh’; it’s not really). A generous pile of snappy leaves – fennel, rainbow chard, endive – it also had plenty of fresh herbs and just a sprinkling of cracked wheat and quinoa from Suffolk. Sweetness, sharpness and bite came courtesy of wrinkly little golden grapes, slices of pickled red onion and a good splash of wholegrain mustard dressing. As salads go, it’s pretty special.
Nutbourne is the largest of the three Gladwin restaurants – it’s on the site once home to renowned neighbourhood hangout Ransome’s Dock – and while the large, wood-cladded room may lack the quirky charm of The Shed, or the intimacy of Rabbit, what it does have is plenty of space for groups and 40 dockside seats, which will shine when the sun comes out. Brunch, anyone?
29 Ransomes Dock, 35-37 Parkgate Rd
|Transport:||Clapham Junction rail|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Fri 10am-12.30am; Sat 10am-2.30am; Sun 10am-5pm|
|Do you own this business?|
Users say (3)
Average User Rating
3.5 / 5
- 5 star:1
- 4 star:0
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:1
- 1 star:0
I want to give this place just one star but for some reason it only lets me give two stars minimum on here. Maybe because I’m doing this in my phone, I have no idea.
Overpriced and pretentious. A lot of fuss about nothing. The small plates were too small and not particularly nice. The combination of ingredients was more miss than hit. The “mouthfuls” are a silly idea and we thought they were simply two very tiny ‘amuse bouches’ served with the restaurant’s ridiculously expensive version of a carafe of Chardonnay that arrived only a third full!
Staff are delightful, if a little amateur. Service very slow. The main course was fine but nothing to write home about.
Overall I just felt ripped off. Won’t be going back.
TASTY FOOD ENGLISH STYLE FOOD WITH QUICK SERVICE
I work at Foster + Partners which is just next door and I arranged a birthday lunch at Nutbourne.
They were very accommodating and the food was lovely!
I arranged for a table of 12 but lots of people kept arriving, making it upto 18. Seats were moved over very quickly and everyone was seated. Everyone only had an hour for lunch and we were in and out within the hour.
We had various items off the menu, highlights being the juices, lamb chips and the salads (the house white wine was also lovely).
Very impressed and I would eat there again *****
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