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The interiors at Picture – an unpretentious, small-plates-serving dining room in Marylebone – may be depressingly grey, but the lack of colour on the walls is remedied by the beautiful presentation of the dishes (if not the ambition).
It’s all rather light fare – despite the vibe given off by the ‘beef bite’, a not-so-bite-sized chunk of breaded meatloaf. I could have eaten a second helping of beetroot with daubs of silky goat’s curd; hake brandade less so – it lacked crucial saltiness and the lid of Provençal vegetables needed a little longer in the pan.
And while the cheeseboard featured a truly sublime plum compote, there wasn’t really much else to go truly wild about. Prices tot up with the a la carte as well; instead, opt for the £40 six-course tasting menu for a spread of seasonal dishes.
With such high-quality ingredients and evident skill in the kitchen (plus super-friendly staff), I wonder whether Picture could afford to take more risks. Saying that, by 9pm the dining room was beginning to pack out – proof that reliable, high-quality cooking will always draw a crowd. Risks? They’re far too risky.