Pizarro

José Pizarro’s restaurant continues in the style set in his tapas bar, José, up the street, but in a much more roomy and therefore less hectic space, though it also fills up on weekend evenings. Menus are more extensive than at the tapas-only José, though you won’t find the sort of intricate cooking that has made some Spanish chefs world-famous, but rather a selection of mostly traditional dishes prepared with immense care and skill, and the finest ingredients available; in this way, Pizarro is a master in bringing the familiar alive. A flawless gazpacho from a good-value lunch menu, for example, was delectably smooth and without a hint of excess acidity. Catalan-style cannelloni with spinach and pine nuts was ideal Mediterranean comfort food; it’s hard to rave about spinach, but this was an exceptional dish, with darts of sweetness from supreme-quality raisins. An expertly slow-braised beef stew was an exemplar of multi-layered flavour. New for 2013 is the Sunday breakfast menu, served until early afternoon. The space artfully combines old-Spanish touches – tiles, warm wood, exposed brick – with a stripped-down New Bermondsey look, with snug booths for relaxed eating and bar-style seating facing the street. Abundant friendly staff work hard to keep the buzzy atmosphere going. Wines are as well-chosen as the produce, and very decently priced.