Conceptually, Poon’s has a lot going for it. First, there’s the location; a stunning, high-ceilinged antechamber in the west wing of Somerset House, all dolled up with hand-painted willows weeping down pastel pink walls. Then there’s the deep, storied lore. This is the latest incarnation of a London institution, with the first Poon’s Restaurant opening in 1973 and bringing Cantonese food to the tatty streets south of Soho and helping give Chinatown its name. Next came the flashier Poon’s of Covent Garden, which welcomed the likes of Frank Sinatra and Mick Jagger (not to mention a Michelin Star), in 1980.
There’s liver so enticing that even offal-phobes might lap it up
Founders William and Cecilia Poon retired in the mid-2000s, but their daughter Amy has been keeping the family business alive, through a thriving chilli-sauce brand as well as various wonton-related pop-ups. This marks her first stand-alone restaurant, and a lot of thought has gone into the elegant space, which is as long, skinny and splendid as any 1990s-era supermodel.
Food isn’t quite as ornate. Although prawn toast, which is dubbed ‘The hill that Amy didn’t die on’ for reasons unexplained, looks the part, all chubby and deep-fried in sesame seeds, it doesn't taste of much. One of those famous Poon’s dipping sauces would be nice, but alas, it is served nude. Luckily, a bowl of slippery wontons are served with a helping of Poon’s branded Chilli Vinegar Dressing, and we cross contaminate to satisfying effect.
Most impressive is a claypot of jasmine rice topped with the wind-dried meats with which the original Poon’s made its name. There’s pork cooked to sweet, jerky-like consistency, and there’s liver so enticing that even offal-phobes might lap it up. It’s got a bit more balls (not literally, despite the offal), than our other non-threatening main of poussin with spring onions and ginger, a delicately poached chicken that is – despite its soft, velvety flesh – perhaps a touch too demure for its own good.
A pretty lump of lychee and lemon sorbet is the ideal palate cleanser. You know when you smell something from Lush, and you think ‘ooh I bet that tastes good’, and then you slyly nibble some soap and realise that no, it simply tastes of soap. Well this sorbet tastes how Lush products should taste. Less good is ‘Three bites of Helen Goh’ (the menu does not care to mention who Helen Goh is), which features a stiff slice of naked, unripe mango.
Poon’s has a lot going for it, but could do with letting loose a bit - then it might make for a fitting tribute to the original.
The vibe Demure Cantonese cookery in a central London landmark building.
The food Wontons, wind-dried sausage and delicate steamed meats.
The drink Great cocktails and a hefty wine list with glasses starting at £7. Try the exceptional toasted rice old fashioned.
Time Out tip Order the wind dried meats, a classic Poon’s dish that harks back to the original Chinatown restaurant of the 1970s.