Quality Chop House

Historically, London’s chop houses have been places to go for a decent meaty meal, in a room that’s smarter than a pub, but more casual than a restaurant. The Quality Chop House may be celebrating its 150th birthday this year, but its notion of serving ace food in an atmospheric space was way ahead of its time.

There are two adjoining dining rooms: the first is lined with rows of dark wooden church pews (great for groups) while the other is home to cosy bistro tables (great for romance, or a catch-up with an old pal). You’ll also find chequerboard tiles on the floor, low lighting overhead, and the air thick with retro tunes and lively chatter.

As for the food, of course you can expect top-notch cuts of meat, with prices to match. On the night of our visit, there were chops of lamb or (beautifully cooked) pork, plus three kinds of steak (sirloin, bone-in sirloin, or rib-eye, £48-£85). But we actually prefer the rest of the ‘fashionable-trad’ Brit menu: not only are these dishes better value, they’re skilfully brilliant. High points included a light and lemony ‘game tea’ and a pair of melt-in-the-mouth, crunch-coated Swaledale lamb croquettes (both £4). Or fresh-to-the-point-of-sweetness Devon crab smeared over thick toast. Next time, we’ll get one of the game pies (around £24), too.

If there’s no room at the inn, try the equally vibey deli-cum-wine-bar two doors down, from the same team.