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Please note, Señor Ceviche Charlotte Street has now closed. Time Out Food editors, DECEMBER 2019.
Señor Ceviche has struck gold with the location of this, its second branch. Set in a lovely townhouse on Fitzrovia’s Charlotte Street, there’s a little terrace out front, but the best seats are actually inside, up the stairs. Here, plants drape exotically down the walls and diners sit at green marble tables looking out over the rest of the restaurant. Drink more than two pisco sours and you could almost kid yourself you’re in Peru.
Ceviche – raw fish cured in citrus juice – is the speciality (obvs), and the best here is the signature ‘Señor Ceviche’. Sea bass and octopus marinated in creamy, spicy tiger’s milk; the fish itself was delicate, infused with notes of tangy citrus, chilli and sweet red onion that unfurled and rolled deliciously across the tongue with every bite. Also excellent was lamb rump served in hunks so sticky and plump they looked like slabs of chocolate.
Now, for the low points. Barbecued artichoke came too hard and quinoa salad was too dry, but most disappointing of all was a waiter who kept trying to strong-arm us into buying more drinks. The setting and the ceviche made up for it, though. I’ve gone back twice.