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Stockwell Continental

Restaurants, Italian South Lambeth
2 out of 5 stars
4 out of 5 stars
(1user review)

Time Out says

2 out of 5 stars

A neighbourhood Italian from the bods behind the Canton Arms and The Anchor & Hope.

The denizens of Stockwell must have been thrilled when this place – an antipasti’n’pizza joint from the folks behind killer gastropub the Canton Arms next door– opened on perennially unlovely South Lambeth Road. But alas: SC is a run-of-the-mill neighbourhood Italian with a clattery café-bar backdrop.

There’s not much to actively recommend. Cacio e pepe arancini should have been an unctuous highlight but were actually all pepper, zero pecorino. Courgette fritti were damp, shedding batter with nary a prod. Better was a pile of Tamworth pork tonnato – thinly sliced pig slathered in tuna mayo is one of Piedmont’s most perversely ace exports, after all – but this was less ‘careful assemblage’ and more ‘vat-scooped’. Taut Vesuvius tomatoes, drenched in oil, were great. But that’s just good shopping.

The pizza itself wasn’t up to much either: a ’nduja number saw a paucity of both soft, fiery salami and fior di latte cheese, and the pickled red onions on top were more saccharine than sharp. A tomato-free pie topped with bottarga (salted, cured fish roe), sliced courgette and more fior di latte was positively arid. But hey, the service was extremely genial.

Given the natty parentage, this was all a bit of a surprise. But then, this kind of pared-down cuisine – especially pizza – is often the most pernickety to pull off. At Stockwell Continental, they haven’t quite.

Details

Address: 169 South Lambeth Road
London
SW8 1XW
Transport: Tube: Stockwell
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £75.
Contact:
Do you own this business?

Users say (1)

4 out of 5 stars

Average User Rating

4 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:0
  • 4 star:1
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|1
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tastemaker

A great local Italian joint goes a long long way. Especially if they nail the pizza.

What we had: 

* Burrata and basil oil

* Romanesco broccoli, mixed grains and soft herbs

* Mortadella pizza: white, no tomato pizza with Mortadella, pickled green chilli, ricotta, pecorino Romano and rocket

* Blood orange and polenta cake

* Milk gelato

As a sister restaurant of The Canton Arms across the road, I was pretty interested to see what Stockwell Continental would bring to the table. The service is very casual - similar to The Canton Arms but friendly enough. The pizza was solid - thin, crispy crust,  healthy amounts of topping and are well sized. The menu is quite varied in pizza toppings and charcuterie/ small plates, though there is only one pasta dish available - the puttanesca; which I would be keen to try. The burrata was indeed creamy and silky, though the bread portions are a little small given the size of the burrata or the charcuterie board (overhearing and seeing my neighbours fare). The blood orange and polenta cake was delicious without being too sweet and I really enjoyed the milk gelato; despite it not being the smoothest gelato, it had a great light and milky sweet flavour. Overall, a great little local that’s popped up and nice to have some variety in cuisine in the Stockwell area.


Tip: one pizza with a few starters or small plates can easily feed two people, leaving room for dessert.


Good For: large groups, authentic Italian, cheap and cheerful, quick meal, take away, casual lunch/ dinner.

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