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Suvlaki

  • Restaurants
  • Brick Lane
  • price 2 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars
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Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

A modern Greek restaurant on Brick Lane.

Britain might have really gotten its head around excellent street food in the last five years or so, but the Greeks have had it nailed since they started mass-peddling souvlaki in the 1950s. Take meat, add tzatziki and salad, roll up in a pillowy pitta, bite in and yell ‘YUM!’.

Brick Lane’s newest Hellenic eatery has named itself after the dish – minus the ‘o’ – and opened a dinky, fun dining room that’s the sister to a Soho branch. There’s a real sense of fun to the place: smiley staff, buzzy conversation, a tucked away booth labelled the ‘Naughty Corner’... and that’s before you realise that the menu offers shots of ouzo for £3. The food was good-to-average: the pulled pork and orzo pasta combo of ‘pork kritharaki’ was all melty brilliance and the lamb chops came beautifully pink, salty as a sailor’s brow and served with a slice of lemon, in authentic Greek style.

The souvlaki range was surprisingly variable for a supposed signature dish, though, with a spicy prawn version featuring chewy crustaceans suffocated by a vast pile of mega-greasy, deep-fried kale. But kormos (chocolate biscuit cake) came with shots of mastiha liqueur for £3. Which perhaps explains the reason that, as we left, one female diner was attempting to dance with a waitress. We’ll say this about the place: it definitely has a party vibe. Will its souvlaki make you want to yell ‘YUM!’? Depends on which one you order.

Written by
Alexi Duggins

Details

Address:
161 Brick Lane
Spitalfields
London
E1 6SB
Transport:
Shoreditch High Street Overground
Price:
Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £90.
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