The Other Naughty Piglet

Restaurants, Global St James's Park
4 out of 5 stars
5 out of 5 stars
(2user reviews)

A wine bar with a focus on really good food, too.

 

With a wine list longer than your arm, the original Naughty Piglets in Brixton is as much a chichi vino bar as a small plates joint. So it goes with this second location, on the upper floor of the Other Palace theatre in Victoria, which is owned by Andrew Lloyd Webber – though there was no sign of the harmonious homunculus when I popped in.

Everything on the menu is meant to be shared and it’s all very good. The opener was a burrata so creamy it might have come straight from the cow, served with a nutty pesto and sweet sliced courgettes. Next up, a champion dish of salty black pudding served with slippery, vinegar-steeped cuttlefish and capers; it was rich, earthy and very, very sophisticated. A fillet of brill fell to bits on the fork and came with a powerful mussel sauce; while roast lamb was lean and lovely, served with sweet turnip tops and a slightly pointless, flavour-light confit chicken croquette.

Desserts aren’t this piggy’s strongest suit. Rhubarb and custard was lukewarm and underwhelming. Happily, honeycomb with chocolate mousse was rich and sticky-sweet, like the world’s classiest Crunchie bar.

I could have done without the whiff of wine snobbery – the waiter implying that I ought to have explored beyond the affordable house white. Still, the food was good enough to drive away any lingering doubts. For black pudding enthusiasts and theatre-minded diners, this is hard to beat.

By: Tom Huddleston

Posted:

Venue name: The Other Naughty Piglet
Contact:
Address: 12 Palace St
London
SW1E 5JA
Transport: Tube: Victoria
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £110.
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Static map showing venue location

Average User Rating

5 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:2
  • 4 star:0
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|2
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tastemaker

Fantastic food, great ambiance and a good selection of wine. The other naughty piglet takes sharing plates to a whole new level. It’s xo linguine and pork belly are stand out dishes. The potato croquet Devine. Grab a few friends a grab a pre or post theatre meal.

Tastemaker

This is definitely my new favourite restaurant in London. This new branch of the highly successful Naughty Piglet is conveniently located in the Other Palace Theatre (ex-St James Theatre) which means I can get food before or after one of the always brilliant musicals (no more plays after the renaming) on show. I was lucky enough to have both Joe in the kitchen and Margaux on front of house when I was there. Margaux was extremely welcoming and passionate about the food and wine. Hailing from Lyon, she definitely does know her wine, and also her great chefs (yes she had a cookbook of THE Paul Bocuse on the display case next to the model naughty piglet). And of course the most important aspect of any restaurant is the food. THE FOOD WAS HEAVENLY! Give this place a michelin star! Not only did the dishes look great (although the waiter did topple the egg yolk of my XO linguine so it wasn't as instagrammable) but they taste amazing too. I would describe the food as french in concept and nature but with an obvious touch of Asian influence. Think beef tartare with crispy seaweed, pork belly with fermented kimchi sauce, crab meat with fermented cabbage and satay sauce. The blend is expertly done and in no way at all like the tacky try-hard fusion restaurants that are common in soho / camden. It wasn't just my guest and I enjoying the restaurant as the table next to us had been to the restaurant two days in a row! I can't wait to revisit this restaurant as soon as possible, whether I am watching a musical there or not!