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Theo's Simple Italian

Restaurants, Italian Earl’s Court
3 out of 5 stars
 (Peter Wood)
1/10
Peter Wood
 (Peter Wood)
2/10
Peter Wood
 (Peter Wood)
3/10
Peter Wood
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 (Peter Wood)
5/10
Peter Wood
 (Peter Wood)
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Peter Wood
 (Peter Wood)
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Peter Wood
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10/10

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

An informal Earl’s Court restaurant from ex-River Café head chef Theo Randall.

Theo Randall? Boy can he get a guy’s goat. He cooked for me and my wife once and she became so enamoured she insisted we name our unborn baby after him. (We didn’t.) The truth is I’m a little in love with him too, but less for his charm and more for the kind of cooking he does at his restaurant on Park Lane - one of my top picks for the best Italian food in London.

Alas that’s not what you get at his Earl’s Court offshoot. What you do get, though, is better-than-average Italian dishes without the chest-clutching prices of the flagship. I happily worked my way through some high-quality burrata with three types of (excellent) tomato, and then pappardelle benefiting from an oxtail ragu big on beefy depth. The only real bum note? The lemon tart – literally a pale imitation of Randall’s signature dessert. 

The trick to Theo Randall’s cooking is that he brilliantly elevates simple Italian food. To purposefully bring it back down to earth here seems a shame, even if it does make it slightly more accessible. A nice enough place, but I doubt you’ll be branding babies in its honour anytime soon. 

By: stevefarmer

Posted:

Details

Address: Hotel Indigo
34-44 Barkston Gardens
London
SW5 0EW
Transport: Tube: Earl's Court
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.
Menu: View Menu
Contact:
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 6.30am–10.30pm & Sat-Sun 7am–10.30pm
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