Theo's Simple Italian
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An informal Earl’s Court restaurant from ex-River Café head chef Theo Randall.
Theo Randall? Boy can he get a guy’s goat. He cooked for me and my wife once and she became so enamoured she insisted we name our unborn baby after him. (We didn’t.) The truth is I’m a little in love with him too, but less for his charm and more for the kind of cooking he does at his restaurant on Park Lane - one of my top picks for the best Italian food in London.
Alas that’s not what you get at his Earl’s Court offshoot. What you do get, though, is better-than-average Italian dishes without the chest-clutching prices of the flagship. I happily worked my way through some high-quality burrata with three types of (excellent) tomato, and then pappardelle benefiting from an oxtail ragu big on beefy depth. The only real bum note? The lemon tart – literally a pale imitation of Randall’s signature dessert.
The trick to Theo Randall’s cooking is that he brilliantly elevates simple Italian food. To purposefully bring it back down to earth here seems a shame, even if it does make it slightly more accessible. A nice enough place, but I doubt you’ll be branding babies in its honour anytime soon.
Head Chef Joseph Lanfranchi and his brigade work closely alongside Theo to celebrate the best of casual Italian dining, using top quality ingredients and perfectly balanced flavour combinations.
The bar features locally sourced beer on draught, artisan English beers by the bottle and classic Italian cocktails.
34-44 Barkston Gardens
|Transport:||Tube: Earl's Court|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.|
|Opening hours:||Mon-Fri 6.30am–10.30pm & Sat-Sun 7am–10.30pm|
|Do you own this business?|