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Treves & Hyde

Restaurants, Fusion Aldgate
3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

A casual bar, café and restaurant on the fringes of the City.

It’s all go in Aldgate, where new towers are springing up like expensive mushrooms and boring old office blocks are transmogrifying into co-working spaces and photography galleries. This place is at the sharp end of London’s contradictions: swanky flats versus strip clubs, chicken shops versus shiny wine bars, builders’ caffs versus aspirational/casual restaurant/bar/cafés like Treves & Hyde. It’s a bit of a fine-dining blackspot round here, and in that respect this modern European kitchen is a welcome arrival. But like the neighbourhood itself, T&H is suffering a bit of an identity crisis.

Downstairs it’s a coffee shop; upstairs a restaurant and cocktail bar. And it’s full of weird dichotomies. The flashy presentation (stacks and streaks everywhere) belies the solid, reliable flavours: a small-but-mighty wodge of pork belly, a salty, buttery, fresh prawn pasta. The house red was from super-classy vintners Berry Bros & Rudd, but the coconut panna cotta came pre-refrigerated in a jar. Confused? I was. The restaurant is too relaxed and reasonably priced for a fancy treat, but too upmarket to become a bargainous neighbourhood stalwart. Though there’s plenty that’s impressive here (even delicious), the lasting feeling is confusion: not so much Treves & Hyde as Jekyll & Hyde.


Address: 15/17 Leman Street
Transport: Tube: Aldagate East.
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.
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