Yosma

Let’s talk Turkey. Food from the Near-to-Middle East is so hot right now, thanks to the efforts of a host of Ottolenghi-indebted hotspots. But the restaurant scene’s love for the Levant has leant towards Israel and Lebanon, as well as some of North Africa, rather than Turkey – ask a clued-up Londoner about Turkish cooking and they’ll still point you towards kebab joints on Green Lanes or Stoke Newington Road. Yosma clearly hopes to change that: it’s a slick, ambitious Marylebone joint that declares itself ‘inspired by the streets of Istanbul’.

But if you’ve ever ventured east of Tottenham Court Road you probably won’t be blown away by the hot and cold meze, including a bland baba ganoush, ravioli-esque manti (lamb dumplings in yogurt) and a gavurdağ – tomato and walnut salad – that arrived walnut-free. There were upsides: alinazik (barbecued lamb) was perfectly cooked, albeit scanty; and the levrek marine (a fleshy marinated sea bass) was delicious. But Yosma’s standards are set no higher than any other half-decent Turkish place – only at Marylebone prices. You can pay £7 for two slices of halloumi if you want; I’ll stick to Green Lanes.