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Ones to watch: London College of Fashion class of 2014

London College of Fashion’s hottest budding designers give a sneak preview of their collections ahead of their MA show at London Fashion Week

Hollie White (© Louise Haywood-Schiefer)
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© Louise Haywood-Schiefer

32, from Australia. MA Fashion Footwear

Describe your collection in five words
Bold, geometric, minimal, speckled, sustainable.

What’s your style
For soles and heels of the shoes and the sunglasses frames, I made a leather composite material. I used scrap leather, cut it into tiny pieces and adhered the pieces with a bonding agent. I wanted to take an industrial process and waste materials and turn them into something with a luxury finish. I’m influenced by ordinary, everyday objects – things like tools.

How has London inspired you?
Living in Hackney, you can see what trends are coming long before they’re on the catwalks. And I like going to the libraries and looking through old magazines and art books, or going to the shop Labour And Wait – I like their pitchforks!

What’s next for your label?
I’d like to freelance to support myself while setting up my own label, but if I had the opportunity to design somewhere I loved full-time, I’d do that first. Phillip Lim in New York would be great.

What’s your ultimate ambition?
To have my own brand in London and I’d also love to do a residency at the Design Museum, to further the research into the materials I use.

Barbra Kolansinski (© Louise Haywood-Schiefer)
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© Louise Haywood-Schiefer

24, from Glasgow, MA fashion design technology

Describe your work in five words
‘Innovative, fresh, fun, exciting and daring.’

What’s your style?
‘I love making my own textiles. I hand-dyed goat hair for the coats – my bath tub is blue one day, purple the next. I wanted to draw on my Scottish heritage without it being too stereotypical with tweed, mohair and tartan. So I’ve referenced it with love hearts in mohair, for example.’

How has London inspired you?
‘Coming from a small village near Glasgow, I love seeing all the different characters here and the amazing buildings.’

What’s next for your label?
‘I don’t want to launch my own brand just yet – I don’t know enough. I want to work in a team, and learn about the industry.’

Daniel Yuste (© Louise Haywood-Schiefer)
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© Louise Haywood-Schiefer

25, from Barcelona, MA fashion design technology menswear

Describe your work in five words
‘Sporty, futuristic, clean, colourful and structured.’

What’s your style?
‘My research was about jewel beetles and how they attract and reflect light. With the fabrics, I experimented with neoprene and a type of resin, and the beetle shape inspired my patterns.’

Who do you design for?
‘I wasn’t thinking about a certain man – it’s more artistic than anything else. I wear the knitwear and trousers myself, but the big structural items are more like couture.’

How has London inspired you?
‘The city pushes you to be bigger, stronger and give all that you have to achieve. In Barcelona it’s all about being laidback!’

What’s your ultimate ambition?
‘In 15 years’ time, when I’m 40, I want to launch my own brand. As trends often seem to look back, I’d like to invent a futuristic trend!’

Mariana Jungmann (© Louise Haywood-Schiefer)
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© Louise Haywood-Schiefer

30, from Brazil, MA fashion design technology womenswear

Describe your work in five words
‘Luxurious, strong, feminine, delicate and modern.’

What’s your style?
‘I work a lot with lace: a lady in São Paolo taught me and I’ve come up with a new way of making it. My designs are inspired by my childhood. I would lie under this big glass dining table, and look at the world through the lace tablecloth.’

How has London inspired you?
‘London is dark and serious compared to cities in Brazil, so I use a monochrome palette.’

Who do you design for?
‘A powerful woman. Someone who you aspire to be.’

What’s next for your label?
‘I had my own fashion label in Brazil and I’m planning to launch it here. My goal is to be stocked in two London department stores by the end of the year.’

What’s your ultimate ambition?
‘I’d like to help the lace-making community back home – the women there don’t have much formal education and they aren’t well paid.’

Aristides Vanis (© Louise Haywood-Schiefer)
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© Louise Haywood-Schiefer

27, from Greece, MA fashion design technology menswear

Describe your work in five words
‘Fresh, young, colourful, happy and hilarious.’

What’s your style?
‘I worked for a theatre company in Athens, where I used to make even more eccentric pieces – this is he most commercial stuff I’ve designed! This collection is inspired by childhood memories: we’d have chicken for dinner and a donkey was my first pet.’

How has London inspired you?
‘In every way. People can’t understand my work in the small town in Greece where I come from.’

What’s next for your label?
‘I’ll enter some competitions to win money to make more collections. I’d love to do my own loungewear line – I make pyjamas and silk robes for people who wouldn’t wear my designs out but like to wear them around the house.’

Who is your dream customer?
‘Pharrell Williams – I like the way he moves and he’s always smiling.’

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