Gastronomy in Dublin

Head upstairs from the ground-floor deli for lunch or dinner in an elegant dining space with linen-clothed tables, antique mirrors, polished service and excellent modern Irish-French cuisine. Chefs use locally sourced meat, bread from their own bakery and expertly selected cheese from the food hall. The creamy Carlingford Lough oysters are sublime, and for those who like dessert with their alcohol, there are delicious dessert cocktails. A downstairs wine bar offers its own shorter, cheaper menu (it includes those oysters). The shelves are heaving with 600 wines, for sale or to drink on the spot, with the added incentive that on Monday and Tuesday there’s just €1 corkage on wines purchased.

Fallon & Byrne

For food on the hoof, you can’t beat this tiny, tiled-floor corner joint. Little Ass serves fast delicious Mexican tacos, tortillas, quesadillas and burritos with a range of fillings, including vegetarian and paleo, at silly ass prices. Lunch deals, from 11.30am until 4pm include any burrito and a drink for €7, and, as Little Ass is open until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s a great grazing stop after a big Dublin night out.

Little Ass Burrito Bar

One of the best fine dining restaurants in Dublin, Dax takes its name from Olivier Meisonnave’s hometown in south-west France, an area famous for foie gras. The cosy basement space is simply furnished – wooden floors and panelling, linen-clothed tables – and won’t distract from determinedly modern Irish-French cooking, which might include Castletownbere crab, local halibut or Irish beef. Sheridans’ cheeses round the meal off beautifully. Service is immaculate and Olivier’s wine knowledge is more than impressive – he has one of the best wine lists in town.

Dax

Cosy (or a bit of a squeeze), but worth it, evidenced by the constant stream of customers heading for tables that only hold 25 people, or a seat around the bar area. And with good reason: Liz Matthews and Simon Barrett opened the restaurant in 2014 and earned a Bib Gourmand just eight months later for their fine dining menu, using many ingredients from local producers and suppliers. Expect dishes such as smoked cod roe with melon and mint, followed by spinach and ricotta malfatti with crispy sage, and white chocolate mousse, raspberry sorbet and yoghurt for pud. Or check out the bargainous four-course Special Chef’s menu for €35 on Mondays to Wednesdays until 9.30pm.

Etto

As soon as you cross the famous Ha’penny Bridge you’ll see the four-floored restaurant/bar/café, Woollen Mills, with its double-aspect windows and a roof terrace offering great views over Dublin. Have a gawk at the menu, where you’ll find delicious dishes for breakfast, lunch or dinner, as well as a more traditional ‘Ha-penny Bridge Coddle’ (a potato soup with sausage and bacon), and plenty of creative vegetarian options. Early birds can get two courses for €24, or three for €29. It also has its own bakery and, at lunchtime, when piles of ‘sambos’ (sandwich with salad or soup combo) go on sale, the place fills like a flashmob. Award-winning sister restaurant Winding Stair can be found next door above the bookshop of the same name.

The Woollen Mills