Things become edgier on the northern side of the Westway. Ladbroke Grove, so gentrified at the Holland Park end, is here lined with late-night shops and fast-food joints, and overlooked by local authority housing, though there are also some handsome houses, long since converted into flats. Portuguese cafés feed a mini expat community, and an indoor market turns the thundering Westway to its advantage. At the area’s northernmost boundary, you’ll find the green oasis of Kensal Green Cemetery (the first of London’s grand Victorian burial grounds) and architect Ernö Goldfinger’s 31-storey Trellick Tower, Grade II*-listed, and a modernist icon.
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Completed in 1972, Ernö Goldfinger’s 31-storey Trellick Tower, built as social housing in the style of Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation, is perhaps London’s most famous brutalist building, and has gained iconic status among architecture fans. The Grade II-listed tower is a desirable address, with flats in the upper storeys boasting views as far as the South Downs. The entry lobby and a couple of flats are often open for tours as part of Open House London weekend, held in September, but be warned: Trellick Tower is one of the hottest tickets at this annual event.