Neighbours: the Explosion

Voodoo Ray’s first made a name for itself by serving seriously delicious pizza by the slice to drunk Dalston revellers. The hours are more early-morning than late-night, the slices are gigantic and the menu reads like an arty acid trip – think Rubenesque, The Full Moon Slice and Shrooms!. Which is why this new Camden Market branch feels like it’s landed in the perfect location, an area slowly regaining hip currency. A bit disappointing then, that on a midweek visit closing time was 8pm and, with 45 minutes to go, they’d pretty much run out of slices. Luckily, the staff are so lovely they offered to stay open late and make a 22-inch pizza from scratch. It was split into three different flavours, and the best by miles was King Tubby, an inventive mix of fennel-infused sausage, crispy kale and sweet, caramelised onion. Less good was Green Velvet, laden with lovely squishy artichoke hearts but a bit too heavy on the mozzarella. The base, too, could have been crisper. But maybe I just wasn’t drunk enough. Given that, my tip would be to get on the sauce and go on the weekend, when Ray’s stays open till midnight.