What is it? A no-frills eatery on Koreatown’s western edge with an early close (8:30pm is the last call for orders) that happens to make the city’s best banchan and ganjang gejang, a.k.a. soy-marinated raw crab.
Why we love it: For those only familiar with Korean barbecue, Soban is a wonderful entry point into the complex, increasingly evolving East Asian cuisine beyond tabletop grills and bulgogi. Named for the low-slung tables traditionally used for communal dining, Soban features chef-owner Jennifer Pak’s cozy homestyle delights. Though service may be brusque, no other place in Los Angeles holds a candle to the buttery, sweet crab marinated in a blend of green chilies, white onion and soy sauce. The dozen or so tiny plates of housemade banchan that accompany every meal burst with flavor, texture and painstaking attention to detail, from the kimchi to the seasoned acorn jelly. You’ll also find first-rate versions of galbi jjim (braised short ribs) and a fiery gochujang stew made of buttery black cod and sliced daikon radish. As of late, other L.A. eateries offering ganjang gejang have gone viral on TikTok, but you won’t find a better version than the one offered at Soban.
Time Out tip: If you don’t want to chance a wait, make a reservation. Everyone from the late Jonathan Gold to Oscar-winning South Korean director Bong Joon-ho has eaten at Soban.
Address: 4001 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90019
Opening hours: Mon, Wed–Sun 11am–9pm