Downtown Miami is on the up. The once-modest gathering of skyscrapers continues to multiply, as the architecture in this formerly faded city center evolves from colorful, campy 1980s to post-millennium sleek. Not long ago, the scene at ground level was largely characterized by an assortment of tacky discount electronics stores, jewelry stores, pawn shops and $.99 emporiums. However, the past decade has seen a major cultural renaissance, partly signaled by a fresh crop of Miami museums and cool, no-nonsense bars, plus the renewed interest in Downtown Miami’s live music venues. For a part of town that seemingly shuts down at 5pm, Downtown Miami comes alive in other ways—and there’s plenty to do if you just know where to look.