Bar Chimera

Simon Kim has a knack for upping the ante in all that he does, bringing the tenets of Korean BBQ to the steakhouse format at Cote and adding bubbles and bumps of caviar to fried chicken at COQODAQ. It is no surprise that he shoots just as high with his first standalone bar, adding the ambition of making the best martini in the city. But with a name like Bar Chimera, this three-pronged beast does more than just swizzle martinis: one corner is dedicated to the art of whiskey, while the other focuses on pouring and guzzling wine, all coming together in one fantastic hybrid.

The vibe: It's hard not to look up here, as the room of 550 Madison soars an astounding 60 feet. And once you do, your eyes will be met by a glowing neon sign looming overhead, telling you "Don't Worry." If the signage doesn't put you at ease, the interior sure will, as each corner of Bar Chimera is tailored to its own medium: martinis, whiskey and wine. The entryway is defined by its wine program and is as convivial as can be, with walk-ins conversing over long tables among walls and refrigerated sections of the stuff. On the other side of it is the martini bar, crisp and clean with mirrored accents, entirely staffed by white suit-jacketed barkeeps who deal in chilled glasses and all things gin and vodka. The whiskey bar, however, is perhaps the grandest, with rows upon rows of whiskeys that nearly touch the ceiling. The drinks can soar, too, as most cocktails hover around the $20 mark, with two topping out at $275. All to say, things are swanky as ever, easily drawing in the buzz of the after-hours corporate crowd. 

The drink: So what does New York's best martini look like? At Bar Chimera, ice is refiltered and remineralized for a perfect dilution, and the glasses—be they wide-brimmed or lithe—are chilled, some still smoking from a swirl of liquid nitrogen. The Sipsmith is clean-tasting, like a good martini should be, with an understated juniper finish, while Seventy One uses a gin that's been aged in an oak barrel for, you guessed it, 71 days, resulting in a tinted, brackish drink that's perfumed on the nose. You can choose to dress your martini as you see fit with lemon twists, pickled onions, and plump Spanish gordal olives, some of which are stuffed with blue cheese and peppers. If you didn't come for a martini, there are over 50 wines by the glass and all manner of whiskey served every which way, from highballs to updated takes on the old fashioned, such as the Kingdom Come with Woodford bourbon and Old Forrester rye and toasted marshmallow that feels and drinks like a nightcap under the stars.

The food: Much like Cote and COQODAQ, Bar Chimera also offers a more accessible feast: a set dinner priced at $95. You can, but we know the real draw is the steakhouse down below. But for a drink and a bite, the lightly fried octopus is a good start with a little kick from the gochujang dipping sauce and the 550 burger's richness is balanced with a swirl of peppercorn mustard that we only wish there was a bit more of so we can dip our tallow fries. 

Time Out tip: One of the best bites of the menu? It goes to the salt bread, which punches above its class—glossy, waxy, buttery, and almost croissant-like in its flakiness.