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My first thought after biting into the falafel and hummus wrap from Gwyneth Paltrow’s just-opened Goop Kitchen: Is there anything this woman can’t do well?
Considering that even a ski accident turned into a court appearance—which then became a cultural moment and ultimately an Off-Broadway show—one could assume that Paltrow would launch a food business that was perfectly crafted for her public.
Goop Kitchen officially opened in midtown Manhattan last week, the first of seven planned New York locations, and, to be clear, the project is just that: a kitchen—not a full-on restaurant. The food, which follows Paltrow's famously "clean" eating ethos, is available for pickup and delivery only.
To the surprise of no one, given the precision of all of Paltrow’s business moves, the lunch I got delivered—a variety of salads, a wrap, and a cookie—was very good. Price-wise, they all fell squarely within the price range of the same types of lunch orders from other go-to fast-casual spots around town, between $16 and $20—totally acceptable in a city like New York.
The G-Potle taco crunch bowl, which I ordered vegan-style with mushroom carnitas, had the tasty kick that elevated it from a not-too-exciting salad I usually make at home. The everyday kale and Brussels salad wasn’t as innovative but still delivered the sort of green, health-forward trend that has enveloped us all—super ingredients and all—though the apple cider vinaigrette, plus a mix of puffed rice and seeds, added a little extra crunch. And the greenest green salad was, oddly enough, the most creative of the bunch, with pesto-marinated chickpeas, grilled artichokes and green beans bringing a little something-something to the base of gem lettuce, cucumbers and avocado.
The falafel wrap was easily the tastiest item I got: filled with pickled red onions, hummus, kale and Brussels sprout slaw, pepperoncini and an herby aioli, all wrapped in a grain-free tortilla, it was flavorful, filling and didn’t leave you feeling that you couldn’t move or eat anything else for the rest of the day. At $16, it’s a solid lunch deal in and of itself.
The coco chocolate chip cookies, $5 for two, also deserve a mention: they satisfy the craving for something sweet without weighing you down. If at all possible, they taste… not unhealthy? If you’re going to indulge in a treat, this should be it.
There’s plenty of competition around New York, though, especially when it comes to the sort of health-forward menu that Goop Kitchen is about, so why did Paltrow decide to launch a ghost kitchen out of all possibilities? The Paltrow-ness of it all shines through here: in addition to making sure the food is good—if not slightly better than the Chipotle-and-salad-bar standards many New Yorkers turn to—the packaging is on point. The salad containers are sturdy, with dressings and crunchy extras served on the side so you can mix everything yourself without risking sogginess, the true death of any salad. Even the cookies, for example, aren’t in-your-face indulgent: they feel more like a refined little tea-time biscuit.
Paltrow is not reinventing the wheel here, but she’s jumping right into it in her signature polished style. The details she pays attention to, paired with pretty good food, clearly make Goop Kitchen a worthwhile addition to the scene.