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Over the summer, Houston’s only Michelin-starred Indian restaurant found a second home in NYC. Translating to traveler from the Hindi and Urdu word, Musaafer is a culmination of corporate executive chef Mayank Istwal’s 100-day journey across India, where he picked up techniques, stories and subsequently dishes along the way. His resulting 72-hour cooked Dal married with its grand “labyrinth-like layout” of a space housed within a Houston shopping mall earned the restaurant a Michelin Star on Houston's inaugural listing.
This August, the restaurant continued the journey, but up north, opening a second location right here in Tribeca. Bringing its opulence with it, the resulting 10,000 square-foot, bi-level space is a sight to see, from a soaring dining room that mimics the breathtaking masterpiece of the Taj Mahal to the mirrored, semi-private dining named the Sheesh Mahal. And as of last month, the restaurant’s underground bar is now ready to take you on another trip, this time exploring India via the glass.
On September 10, the Musaafer team unveiled the basement-level bar Saaqi. The name, which translates to “one who serves wine," nods to the cupbearers of ancient Persia who once served wine to the royalty of the Mughal courts. Mirroring the opulence of the long-gone clientele, the 88-seat venture follows suit with grand portraits and paintings, 16th-century brickwork and low-slung chairs and couches wrapped in velvet. The showstopper of them all, however, goes to the all-glass, illuminated 40-foot bar that stretches the length of the room.
Overseeing the beverage programs at both Musaafer locations is Afzal Kaba. More than just spelling out ingredients, Kaba weaves art, culture and traditions found across India to his menu, highlighting regions along the way. Take the Sikki. The drink is named after sikki, a type of grass grown in northern India that’s long been used to make sculptures, baskets and other decorative items by the state of Bihar. Noting that banana and lychee are central to the state of Bihar, the cocktail uses both in combination with Brugal 1888 rum, yuzu ponzu and allspice.
The rest of the cocktails follow the same vein, such as the Channapatna Toy (Mijenta blanco tequila, muyu jasmine verde liqueur and fresh lime) which references a popular wooden toy and the Brass Art (Mijenta tequila reposado, pomegranate and jamun liqueur cordial) that reflects Mughal-inspired craftsmanship from the 18th century. Mussafer signatures continue with a sandalwood old fashioned, Negroni-infused with paan, the mouth freshener made of betel leaves, and a tequila fat-washed with truffle found in The Truffle Master.
And drinking on an empty stomach? Not at Saaqi. Chef Istwal has drummed up some small plates for a little snack and sip, including Galawat Potato Cookie seasoned with fennel, cumin and ginger, popcorn seasoned with curry leaf, ginger and garlic and lentil battered shrimp with a habanero emulsion.
Saaqi adds to New York’s surprisingly growing list of Indian cocktail bars, as just last month INDN launched in Nomad, billing itself as the city’s first "all-Indian cocktail bar.” So while it may not be the first, Saaqi proves it certainly has something to say. So we say find your way to this hidden cocktail bar and see what's shaking.
Saaqi is open from 5pm to 12am every day, and no reservations are needed.