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The Grilling is back! Every month, we put a different culinary star from Time Out Market New York, Dumbo and Time Out New York, Union Square in the hot seat. This time, the chef behind Ivy Stark Mexology and BKLYN Wild answers our rapid-fire questions.
Ivy Stark moved to New York in the '90s to do what most people who move there do—follow their dreams. And she has done exactly that, finessing her culinary skill on both coasts by sharpening her knives at the iconic Border Grill under the tutelage of Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken and making a name for herself out east in the Mexican cuisine category with her work at Dos Caminos and Rosa Mexicano. Alongside authoring cookbooks, Stark stays busy with her two restaurants: Ivy Stark Mexology in Time Out Market New York, Dumbo, and her recently revived plant-forward haven, BKLYN Wild in Time Out Market New York, Union Square. We caught up with the chef to talk about New York in the '90s, her bicoastal cooking career and her thoughts on the state of Mexican food in New York City.
What food or dishes made you curious about cooking while growing up?
When I was around four or five years old, I was making potato salad with my mom, and I was just amazed at how taking the separate ingredients and combining them together made this delicious dish. It was like a little bit of magic, and I’ve loved cooking ever since. My parents also took my sister and me on vacation to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, when I was around eight, and I immediately fell in love with the culture and food.
What was your first impression of NYC when you moved here in the '90s?
I loved it! I’d been dreaming of coming here to live since I was a teenager, and just could not wait to be a part of it.
What was your first New York City apartment like?
It was soooooooo small, really just one small room on the Lower East Side. I used to joke that I could reach my stove to turn on the tea kettle from my bed. I loved it, though. When I eventually moved to a slightly larger apartment a block away, I was like “This is too big!”
What’s the biggest difference between working in kitchens in NYC and L.A.?
Well, I worked with two women chefs, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger [in Los Angeles], so it was definitely a less charged environment, but the restaurants were extremely busy, so it could be intense in terms of pace. I came to New York to work in fine dining, so it was intense in a different sort of way—very competitive, a lot of pressure for perfection, insane long hours. But what I learned working in those kitchens was invaluable, and I use those skills every day. Was there yelling? Yes, for sure. Was there this pirate culture that’s been portrayed as typical New York kitchen culture? No.
Which city has the best food scene, New York or Los Angeles?
In the '90s, I would say there was a smaller fine-dining scene in L.A., but the Thai, Japanese, and Armenian food were incredible. NY was the fine-dining powerhouse that also had excellent ethnic food, but there are a lot of restaurants in L.A. that I loved and truly missed when I moved to NY to stay.
What are you eating on a night off at home?
Pretzels and cheese in front of the TV, like most chefs! Kidding! Aside from if I’m cooking for myself, it's simple pasta or beans, rice, and veggies with some homemade tortillas.
What restaurants are you excited about right now?
So many! I love Francie in Williamsburg for its casual vibe and outstanding European food. I am lucky enough to live near RAS Plant Based—they serve some of the best Ethiopian cuisine I’ve had anywhere.
Tell us about your favorite spring vegetable to cook with
I am crazy about radishes, there are so many great varieties, they are just so gorgeous, I love when they pop up in the farmer’s market. And you start to see the first squash blossoms toward the end of spring, so that’s always exciting for me.