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When Rasheeda Purdie announced that she was moving Ramen By Ra, her tiny but mighty ramen stall in The Bowery Market, into a place of her own, I think we all assumed her next venture would follow the general trajectory of more: more menu, and definitely more space. Instead, four seats have now been upgraded to a healthy six, as she relocated to an East Village space no larger than a home kitchen—and it essentially operates as such. But this was an intentional move, as Purdie’s vision was to remain true to the ramen counters of Japan. That, and she always wanted to ensure that dining with her remained intimate. And after a slow 45-minute spell with Purdie over easy conversations and bowls of excellent ramen, it is easy to see why her counter continues to be one of the hardest seats to claim in the city.
Even from the storefront, Purdie’s hand is evident. The entire facade is painted a deep chocolate brown, delicate lace curtains peeking from the window. The inside feels like you've arrived in mom’s kitchen, with warm dark woods, mirrored backsplashes and crystal glasses that have been carefully set out for your arrival. Purdie and her sous chef, Brianne “Brie” Waller, are here to welcome you—and more—as they hold all the titles here—server, host, chef. Though they do it all, from carefully laying thin, straw-colored noodles in bowls to steaming buns, it's still possible to catch them for a bit of conversation, whether it's to chat about Purdie’s past life in the fashion industry or the vinyl of the day that freewheels in the background.
But of course, the ramen is the real draw here. A study of her craft, Purdie became obsessed with the dish during the pandemic, particularly with the asa-style ramen eaten for breakfast in Japan. To sell the idea here, Purdie builds her bowls with a New York eye. The bacon, fried egg & cheese is the crowd pleaser for a reason, featuring noodles accompanied by thick, ample cuts of bacon, a jammy, soy-marinated egg, and curls of Parmesan that easily melt into the whole thing. The broth that ties it together is rich, with the addition of lard oil and a drizzle of bacon grease straight from the pan.
The lox bowl drinks more like the sea, with a nori-infused broth balanced by a gentle cream cheese foam and strips of lox that hang in and out of the broth, getting saltier the longer they bathe. The herby steak-and-eggs bowl features pink slices of ribeye, accompanied by a ladle of chimichurri and sesame seeds bobbing in the broth.
Can't get a seat at the counter? There's another way to feast on Purdie's excellent ramen: takeout. As of last month, diners can call ahead for one of four types of ramen to-go: everything egg drop (with the option to go vegetarian), bacon soy egg & cheese or the lox. And even with a pickup model, you still get a chance to commune with Purdie as she takes your order when you arrive, then sends you on your way.
I left with a to-go order of the egg drop, filled to the brim with a silky, sesame-heavy broth and eggs that had quite a bit of jiggle, offset by a crunchy blend of sesame seeds, dried garlic, and chili threads you can hear. But, as is the standard with ramen, this cup requires quick eating, as the delicate noodles will start to swell the longer you linger. That, and the to-go option from Ramen By Ra doesn’t come with a lid and is served quite hot, so much so the paper sleeve offers little relief. Arriving on a moderately chilly day, I plopped down at the park across the street from the restaurant, happy to sit a spell and slurp at my leisure. But as we are nearing the edge of a burning summer ahead, I do wonder (and worry) about the logistics of hot ramen on an equally hot day.
But whichever way you decide to slurp your ramen, you should most definitely do so at Ramen By Ra. And while you may have to play the Resy reservation game for a seat, once inside, Purdie's brand of ramen, paired with her warm hospitality, will make it worth your while.