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Every autumn, the Hudson Valley lets out a siren’s call that many New Yorkers simply can’t ignore. The idyllic villages, bountiful apple orchards and jaw-dropping fall foliage are irresistible, and so close you can almost taste the cider doughnuts in the crisp air. The only problem is getting there.
Over the years, I spent many Saturday mornings waking at the crack of dawn, booking it across town to cram into a friend’s small sedan, then spending hours in traffic to reach a fruit-picking farm. I became an expert on the hiking trails you can access from the Metro-North and NJ Transit lines, which often meant timing everything just right or risking missing the ideal train back and having to kill an hour at the station.
The travel pains were worth it for the momentary respite from city life, but I also wondered if the Circle Line’s Bear Mountain Oktoberfest Cruise could be the alternative I’ve always longed for.
The popular full-day sightseeing excursion ($79–$149) differs from most fall foliage cruises leaving from Manhattan, in that it docks in the Hudson Valley and includes about three hours on foot to explore Bear Mountain State Park. The cruise sets sail most weekends in October and has become an annual tradition. It’s certainly not the fastest way to get up the Hudson; on a light traffic day you can drive from Manhattan to the Bear Mountain Bridge in about an hour, while this cruise takes two-and-a-half hours to make its way from Pier 83 (42nd Street and 12th Ave) to the state park’s dock. But unlike a road trip, this boat ride includes guaranteed entertainment and alcohol.
This year’s cruises have already sold out, but if you’re lucky enough to have tickets, I have some advice on making the most of your cruise. And if you don’t? Let this be the encouragement you need to set a calendar reminder to buy tickets next fall.
(Also, if you really want the experience of taking a boat up to Bear Mountain, Seastreak Ferries also has full-day cruises to the park, and they’re not yet sold out for the season. There’s no Oktoberfest theme, but they do allow you to book one-way trips if you want to take the bus back or book a night at the Bear Mountain Inn. Round-trip prices start at $79 for adults and $49 for kids under 13.)
My experience aboard the cruise and travel tips
I boarded the cruise, bright and early, on a sunny Saturday earlier this fall. You’ve probably seen the Circle Line ships if you’ve found yourself on the Hudson River Greenway—while these iconic white sightseeing vessels are smaller than a Staten Island Ferry, they include multiple decks, and space for about 500 passengers. The decor is unremarkable inside with basic folding chairs for seats, but it’s bright and cheery due to the massive windows with wrap-around views of the Hudson River. The vessel’s size and the river’s calm waters also means you’re unlikely to get seasick.
Although it wasn’t yet 9am, some passengers were already lining up to buy a large refillable beer mug ($45), while others started their day with hot cocoa and pastries. I went for a coffee and apple cider doughnut (perfectly festive, though unremarkable), while my two friends, whom I roped in to join me on this adventure, went for a pumpkin swirl roll (a tad too sweet) and a Bavarian pretzel (delightfully salty).
By the time we got our first concessions of the day, the boat was about to take off. That’s when we realized that we hadn’t secured seats. This was our first mistake of the day (second if you count skipping the breakfast beer). And that brings me to my first tips for going on this cruise.
Tip 1: Arrive early and secure your group’s seats
On this cruise, all seats are first-come, first-served. Boarding starts a half hour before launch time, so get there at 8:30am and figure out where you’re going to sit as soon as possible. The good chairs on the outside deck or inside by a window fill up quickly, and if you wait too long, it can be impossible to find two together, let alone three or more.
Luckily, we were not separated for long. Minutes after the boat left the dock, we could regroup and move around the cabin and outside decks to enjoy the views from multiple vantage points. That said, we didn’t want to stay outside long at the start of the trip —it was much colder than expected!
Tip 2: Make sure to pack layers and sunscreen
My cruise day was a perfect autumn day: sunny, with a light breeze and a high of 70 degrees. However, I wasn’t prepared for how chilly it was on the boat in the morning; wind on the water is colder than on land. On the other hand, it was very warm on the return trip when I sat in the sun, and even though I applied sunscreen before I left in the morning, I still left the cruise with a red neck.
Inside, we listened to our tour guide, the charming Flying Bobby—he’s a former trapeze artist—who mixed general facts about the sites around us (like Hoboken’s many contributions to the world) with personal anecdotes (his dad’s past military service on the Intrepid). If you’re a New York history buff, you won’t learn much new trivia, but for the plentiful tourists on board, Flying Bobby had a lot to offer, especially on the first leg of the trip. As the tour guide, he was also our MC, a job that suited his outgoing personality perfectly.
By the time we hit the Bronx, it had warmed up some, and enough passengers were milling about that we could snag a temporary spot on the deck in front of the live brass band that took over entertainment duties. Street Beats Brass Band played some traditional polka, but they weren’t too tied to the Oktoberfest theme. They also played plenty of crowd-pleasing familiar songs, from the Peanuts theme and jazz standards to Billy Joel hits and sea shanties.
We were ready for our first cocktail of the day and a hot plate of German food, so we split up and braved the lines at the concession stands.
Tip 3: Lines can be long, so strategize your visits to the concession stand
Unfortunately, you can’t bring your own food or drink aboard this cruise. General admission ticket holders have access to two concession stands (premier ticket holders have a separate bar, but more on that later). The first floor has the main stand, where you can get classic concession food (sandwiches, pizza, ice cream) and hot beverages (including hot toddies and Irish coffees). The second floor has a smaller bar, but the line is usually much shorter. Go straight to the second floor if you just want beer, cold specialty cocktails (I recommend the apple cider mimosa to start, and the salted chocolate peanut butter pretzel drink for dessert), or some chips. I found that splitting up with my friends, so one of us could wait in the longer line or guard seats while the others refreshed our drinks, worked wonders.
Tip 4: Go ahead and have lunch on the boat
The cruise typically arrives at Bear Mountain between 11:30am and noon, so you can alternatively hold out to eat lunch at the park—there’s a concession stand near the lake and the historic Bear Mountain Inn’s café and restaurant are options if you’re feeling ambitious. However, I liked getting lunch out of the way so I could spend more time exploring the park. The cruise’s Oktoberfest plate ($16.50) is a decent value, too. The pork schnitzel was tasty, and it came with all the sides you’d expect (potato salad, sauerkraut, potato pancakes, red cabbage).
By the time we got through the long line and ate, we had passed under the Governor Mario M. Cuomo (R.I.P. Tappan Zee) Bridge, and we were in the Hudson Valley proper. We had been on the cruise for almost two hours, but it didn’t feel that long. It was easy to relax and enjoy the beautiful weather and good company as we sipped our (very) sweet cocktails and vibed out to the music.
Most of the trees were still lush and green on our trip up the river, but when we arrived at Bear Mountain, we finally saw some bright yellow leaves, and it felt like autumn was properly here. If you want to see the best fall foliage, book a cruise closer to Halloween.
What to do in Bear Mountain
Our ship arrived later than expected—travel time can vary with tides and river traffic—leaving us about two hours to explore the park if we wanted to get back comfortably by 2:15pm, the time we were given to re-board or risk getting left behind. That meant we definitely couldn’t go far on a hiking trail, but we could still enjoy some of the park’s most notable attractions.
It’s about a half-mile trek up a steep hill from the dock into the park, but luckily we were wearing comfortable shoes. The trail goes right past the Trailside Zoo. We kept going up to Hessian Lake, where there’s a concession stand and plenty of picnic tables overlooking the water. After taking a break on a lakeside bench, we continued past the scenic Bear Mountain Inn to the adjacent play field, where we sat under a tree and took it all in.
On our way back, we visited the zoo, which is entirely populated with animals native to the area, to say hello to the porcupine and a sleeping bobcat and fox. We could have continued on, but we worried about getting good seats for the return, so we headed back to the boat.
I liked our lackadaisical approach to the visit, but if you wanted to go in with more intention, I have some thoughts:
Going wild at the Trailside Zoo
I was happy just getting a small taste of the zoo ($1 suggested donation), but if you’re going with kids or people who love learning about local history and nature, don’t sleep on this enchanting spot. What the zoo lacks in size, it makes up for with an abundance of sweet little trailside placards filled with factoids about native plants, prehistoric geology, the Revolutionary War and even a joke about frogs. Lovely gardens border the animal enclosures, and the porcupine really is a star.
Walking (or boating!) around Hessian Lake
Though you can access the Appalachian Trail near Bear Mountain Inn, your best bet for a nice nature walk is the 1.4-mile loop around Hessian Lake. The water is truly majestic, especially when it’s reflecting the surrounding autumn foliage. The trail is well paved and mostly flat, so it suits most fitness levels and families. If you’re of the opinion that the cruise doesn’t give you enough time on the water, or you want to work those calf muscles a bit more, you can also rent a pedal boat ($10/person per half hour, or $15/person per hour).
Taking in Bear Mountain Inn
While I was content with the Oktoberfest plate, the Inn’s Restaurant 1915 has real old-school Adirondack charm: high ceilings, a massive stone fireplace, beautiful woodwork, and windows overlooking the park. If you made a reservation for 12:30 or 12:45pm and ate quickly, you could make it work. Or, if you just want a memento from your trip up the river, the surprisingly large gift shop has plenty of cute options. If you visit during the long weekend in October (October 10 to 12 this year), there’s also a special Fall Family Fest & Craft Brew Garden on the lawn outside the Inn, where you can purchase BBQ and local beers.
The return trip and some last tips
We returned to the boat a few minutes before we were told we needed to arrive, and we were thankful to grab some cold beers and primo seats on the deck. We were warned that the cruise had left people behind before, and while I think everyone made it back, some passengers were definitely hustling down the dock when the vessel blared its horn. The return trip was relaxed—the musicians were back to playing, and Flying Bobby had a few more sights to point out to the crowd.
I had time to talk to some other passengers and consider what I might do differently if I took the cruise again.
Tip 5: Live a little, get the refillable mug
The passengers who bought the refillable mug seemed to get the most out of their investment with free refills, though no one on our trip got particularly rowdy. If you think you’ll want to drink four large beers (over the course of eight hours, mind you), it’s worth it. You also get a raffle ticket with your purchase, which could land you a small prize like a hat.
Tip 6: You can probably skip the premier seats
The more expensive premier seats come with a few perks, including early boarding and exclusive access to the cruise’s top deck, which has comfier seats and a separate bar. This means that you’re guaranteed a decent chair and you can avoid the long concession lines. I didn’t mind waiting for food—it’s a long trip, and while there are plenty of great views, not every mile up the river is equally scenic. If you really want to maximize your time on the water, it’s worth considering—otherwise save yourself the $50 (or more depending on when you buy; prices fluctuate) and get a standard ticket.
We were getting sleepy after our long day on the cruise, so for our final trip to the concession stand we went full-sugar mode: ice creams and sangria slushies in a Lady Liberty cup. When we got back to Manhattan, the sun was already sinking low in the sky. I was ready to head home, catching a glimpse of the opposite of a state park—Times Square—on the way.
