Fish Cheeks is a leader among New York's Asian restaurants offering cuisine inspired by the regions of Thailand, so, naturally, we invited it to hold court at Time Out Market New York. We tasted its food, reviewed the restaurant and had no hesitation in recommending Fish Cheeks for a spot at the market. Here’s why:
Named after the Asian delicacy, this seafood-forward Thai is as family-style as it is family-run (it's also been awarded a Thai Select designation, meaning the Thai government has recognized the restaurant for its authenticity). Brothers Chat and Ohm Suansilphong (the latter is an alum of Bangkok’s acclaimed Nahm) act as co-chefs, bringing kitchen chops honed under their restaurateur parents in Thailand to the former Le Philosophe space in Noho. At the 58-seat comfort-food spot—designed with colorful scalloped tiles and a shingled outside awning that emulate fish scales—find dishes like coconut king crab in a hand-crushed red-curry paste, and baked shrimp with pork belly over a bed of cilantro-laced glass noodles. Beverage director Dev Johnson, of Employees Only, slings Thai-influenced cocktails behind the bar.