Sanwits

For a good four years, the Unapologetic Foods team held court in the East Village (before the arrival of Adda) with Rowdy Rooster, a fast-casual Indian fried chicken destination that always knew how to ratchet up the heat. The bird quietly flew the coop earlier this year (don't worry, there's still a location in the Penn District), allowing a newcomer to roost. Chef Erik Valdez, who has been with the team since the Dhamaka days and currently runs the Filipino eatery Naks down the street, has taken up the reins, opening up perhaps the city's first-ever Filipino sandwich shop.

The color wheel that was once Rowdy Rooster has been subdued, as most striking features of this pint-sized sandwich shop are a colorful wall of Filipino chips and a mural that depicts a cartoonish childhood version of Valdez with a sandwich in hand. And while the space itself is unassuming with just four metal tables and low-to-the-ground chairs, it's the menu that makes the most noise.

The crowning glory goes to the Lechon Dip, a glorified pig party with sizzling, equal parts shredded and gelatinous bits of roasted pork asado that barely can be contained in the sturdy hero roll. It becomes that much richer as the sandwich comes with a ladle of savory jus that quickly goes gelatinous and jiggly if you don't eat it fast enough. But honestly, the jus still stands in all its peppery and slightly vinegared glory, regardless of the temp.

Sanwits's chicken sandwich carries the torch of its fallen fried chicken brethren, as a nice and crispy thigh is absolutely dredged in a roasted eggplant aioli and a shrimp sauce that gives it funk and a little spice on the end. The Makati earns the title of the least saucy of the bunch, but still holds its weight on the menu as this alleged breakfast sandwich swaps bacon for none other than brisket wagyu. Would it put a lesser man to sleep at breakfast? We think so. But would it also cure a hangover of that same man? We absolutely think so.

There are a few sides to add if you can fit them in (the sammies are quite filling), with a reddish mac and cheese with hot dog slices and crisp, golden-brown lumpia. The vinegar fries that are described as "sick" are tart and puckery, but not as brash as a bag of kettle chips. 

Is there any refuge here for a lighter bite? Not a chance, as all five of the sandwiches are incredibly heavy, sauced and much like taking a car off a lot, lose value the longer you wait to eat it. But that in itself is the glory of Sanwits—a sandwich shop that begs to be eaten in the now, regardless of the mess along the way.

Time Out tip: If it wasn't clear enough, all of the sandwiches here are saucy affairs. Find a breather for your taste buds by ordering the tart Honey Calamansi Fizz to cut through the richness.