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Sushi rice balls with avocado, spicy mayo and tobiko at Chez Sardine
Photograph: Virginia Rollison Sushi rice balls with avocado, spicy mayo and tobiko at Chez Sardine

The Feed first look: Chez Sardine

Hit-making restaurateur Gabriel Stulman's latest opening is a loose interpretation of an izakaya, a Japanese sake tavern.

By Christopher Ross

Unstoppable West Village impresario Gabriel Stulman, whose mini empire includes Perla and Joseph Leonard, applies his Midas touch to Gotham’s latest food muse: the izakaya. At this loose interpretation of the Japanese sake tavern opening on November 21st, chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly—who also mans the stove at another Stulman spot, Fedora—delivers tweaked bar fare, like a foie gras grilled cheese with house-smoked cheddar and a slow-cooked egg in bacon broth. Diners can also order creative Japanese-inspired bites, like sea urchin with house-made potato chips, and rice balls with avocado and tobiko (flying fish roe). To drink, there’s a short list of dry, crisp sakes, as well as French and German wines, courtesy of beverage director Jen Sgobbo, who pulls double duty as the sommelier at Perla. The tiny 30-seat eatery is built in the fashion of a 1960s boat, with streamlined dark-wood fixtures. 183 W 10th St at 4th St (646-360-3705)


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