The eastern part of Osaka prefecture is known as Kawachi and is commonly divided into three areas. Kita-Kawachi is the northernmost third: Bounded in the north by the Yodo River, the area encompasses seven municipalities, most of them densely populated. But even amidst the suburban sprawl you’ll find small farms, many of them focusing on vegetables that have been grown in these parts for centuries. A standout among the area’s traditional veggies is the lotus root, the cultivation of which started in Kita-Kawachi centuries ago because the marsh-like soil was unsuitable for growing rice. In a triumphant turn, Kawachi lotus root is now a prized local speciality.
Naka-Kawachi, the central part, covers the three municipalities of Higashi-Osaka, Yao and Kashiwara. Once a place of strategic importance on the main road between Osaka and the ancient capital of Nara, Naka-Kawachi became famed for its flourishing cotton-growing and textile industry during the Edo period (1603–1867). While today known mainly as a key manufacturing centre, the area has a rich agricultural heritage, with the growing of vegetables such as green onions, edamame and Yao wakagobo burdock complemented by grape orchards in Kashiwara. This part of Naka-Kawachi was the most productive grape region in Japan in the late 1920s, and even today the vast majority of Osaka grapes come from Kashiwara.
Minami-Kawachi is a semi-rural region characterised by its artistic and culinary abundance – think everything from traditional ceramics to vineyards and heirloom vegetables. It entices travellers with sweeping, picturesque vistas and some of the richest flavours the prefecture has to offer. While getting there takes some work – well, at least an hour’s train ride from central Osaka – the rewards are immense. Whether you choose to journey back in time in the Tondabayashi Jinaimachi ‘temple town’, take a winery tour or immerse yourself in the region’s gastronomic delights at a destination restaurant, Minami-Kawachi can be counted on to offer an invigorating experience.