Whether you’re here for a long weekend or a lifetime, there’s so much to love about Rome: its colours, raking mid-season light and sunsets; its agelessness, artistic wealth and cocksure sense that it is the world’s most stunning city thanks to an endless array of beautiful buildings and Instagrammable spots. There’s quite a lot to rile you too: traffic chaos, stroppy shopkeepers and less-than-reliable public transport.
The Eternal City and its eternal contradictions can be challenging for first-time visitors. But Rome more than repays the effort of getting to know it, through its dazzling attractions, stunning restaurants, charming bars and more. Once you’ve got a handle on the place, you’ll find there’s so much to revel in. Take it as it is—rough, ready and infinitely fascinating—and enjoy this infuriating, fabulous city.