The towering floor-to-ceiling windows, the majestic chandelier, the sprawling dining room. You might’ve already guessed where I am: the iconic dining hall on the ground floor of The St. Regis. Once home to The Astor Grill, a New York-inspired steakhouse, this space in the luxury hotel now houses Sophia, a modern Italian restaurant.
Apart from the furnishings, which were once velvety red and regal, but are now contemporary with light blue tones, the layout hasn’t changed much. You still get that magnificent glasshouse effect in the day, where natural light streams in through the windows. The seating is comfortably spread out, and there are even semi-private ‘booths’ slightly elevated and set apart from the main dining area.
Chef de Cuisine Angelo Sergio has been with the restaurant since its early days as Brasserie Les Saveurs, before it became The Astor Grill, and he remains at the helm of Sophia. Despite his Puglian heritage, he brings a wealth of knowledge from all over Italy, which explains why the menu draws influences from 11 regions across the country.
In true Italian fashion, complimentary bread arrives first, paired with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, though our server is a little heavy-handed with the latter. I follow that with a simple, hearty grilled cauliflower soup ($22), which I’m told is quite popular with guests. The grilled octopus ($32) on the menu also catches my attention, and it arrives elegantly plated, well-charred and succulent in the middle, served with fava beans, red onion and semi-dried tomatoes that nicely complement the dish.
For mains, I order the smoked tagliatelle pasta ($28) with porcini mushrooms and veal jus. The restaurant uses Atavi pasta – a brand founded by Michelin-starred chef Albert Adria – and is the only place in Singapore currently serving it. But exclusivity doesn’t always translate to excellence, and unfortunately, I’m not convinced by the hype. Made from 100 percent Italian durum wheat, the noodles have a distinct earthiness, though not the pleasant kind, and a slightly rough, gritty texture. The promised smokiness doesn’t come through, and neither the veal jus nor porcini adds depth to the dish.
My next plate of ravioli burrata ($32) is a much better choice, plated over a sauce of oven-baked tomatoes and basil pesto. For desserts, I enjoy the cannoncini alla crema ($7), where vanilla custard-filled puff pastry is piped tableside and finished with a dab of pistachio nibs. The panna cotta ($16) is served with red wine-poached pear – a little too heady in my opinion – and definitely best enjoyed with a bite of the almond tuille.
Overall, it’s an even split between hits and misses, though it’d be remiss not to mention other dishes that came highly recommended by our server. These include the beef bresaola focaccia with goat cheese and honey ($18), burrata with baked tomatoes, basil and pesto oil ($26) and the pizza with fior di latte cheese, porcini mushrooms, black truffle and Parmigiano Reggiano ($26). The star of the show on the pasta menu is the Spaghetti All’astice ($118), featuring a whole Boston lobster, though be warned that it does cost a small fortune.
Sophia definitely nails the romantic mood with its soft lighting and plush interiors, perfectly suited for a date night or special occasion. The only catch? Order wisely, since not everything is a hit, at least for now.
Sophia is open daily at 29 Tanglin Rd, The St. Regis Singapore, Singapore 247911.
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