Steak frites – it doesn’t get better than that. And when it's the only main dish on a restaurant’s menu, you'd best believe it’s going to be good. We’ve seen a similar concept with L’Entrecôte, but this new bistro from Hong Kong might be giving the French institution a run for its money. La Vache!, literally ‘the cow’ in French, but also an expression for ‘holy cow!’, brings the classic entrecôte steak and fries pairing to Singapore in the vibrant setting reminiscent of a Parisian brasserie.
The fun starts outside, with a bright, cherry-red shopfront peeking out of a back alley. And when you walk in, a cosy 46-seater dining room welcomes you with gorgeous red leather banquettes, checkered tablecloths, brass fixtures and whimsical scenes of Paris plastered on the walls. There’s hardly an introduction, just the straight-shooting question of how you’d like your steak done. Medium to medium-rare is the recommendation, but if you’ve always been hesitant to ask for a well-done slab, here’s one place you won’t be judged.
Before the steak arrives, line your stomach with crunchy baguettes and butter from Brittany, as well as a refreshing salad tossed in a house vinaigrette and walnuts. Decent, but nothing worth shouting about, though it’s good to know that they’re included in the $68 price tag, and that you’re getting your fibre in before a self-induced meat coma. Careful not to load up too much before the main event though, because those incoming 280-gram ribeye slabs are worth saving every inch of stomach space for.
La Vache! exclusively uses USDA Double Gold ribeye, a premium cut that’s exceptionally tender yet not overly fatty or cloying, ideal for a meal like this where the last thing you want is to get full too quickly. The middle slices with the best marbling are served first, but the edges are just as succulent, cooked through evenly inside and with a more intense sear on the outside. A candle beneath the platter keeps it warm throughout the meal – a thoughtful and much-appreciated touch.
And finally, a well-seasoned steak that’s good on its own without requiring any heavy-lifting from sauces. If you want to switch things up in between bites, we recommend a tiny dab of the signature sauce, which is a more garlicky and herby take on the traditional French Béarnaise. Wash it all down with a glass of house red wine ($16 per glass), fruity and acidic enough to cut through the grease and keep you going back for more.
The fries are in a league of their own, deep-fried in beef fat and finished with a generous dusting of a top-secret seasoning. We think it’s chicken salt – it just has that unmistakable umami-rich profile similar to MSG. Some find them a tad salty, which is why the team brings around freshly fried batches with less seasoning once you’re done with the first serving. We haven’t even gotten to the best part yet: it’s free-flow.
Desserts are brought out in grandiose fashion, with a display trolley featuring house-made pastries and weekly rotating specials: treats like vanilla ice cream-stuffed profiteroles, fig tarts and raspberry millefeuille to knock you out for hours. Each of them goes for $16, with two scoops of gelato (courtesy of the cult-favourite Aussie brand Messina) priced at $10.
La Vache! is open from Tuesday to Sunday, noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm at 40 Gemmill Ln, #01-03, Singapore 069269. The restaurant will begin operating daily starting in November. Kids under six dine for free.
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