It’s days before the opening of Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST), and we’re sitting in its first Singapore outlet in Tanjong Pagar. The Tokyo-based pizzeria takes over the spot that used to house cocktail bar Tippling Club, and apart from doing away with the hanging glass bottle display that used to dangle across the bar counter, all other fixtures remain pretty much the same.
The first thing we hear is that since PST Singapore opened reservations to the public recently, it’s already seen a jaw-dropping 2,000 tables booked, even before the official launch on June 10. We do our homework before visiting, and that’s how we find out about the brand’s seriously studded rep – it’s been given stamps of approval by Michelin, 50 Top Pizza, and has even hosted the likes of Jeff Bezos and Justin Bieber when they visited Japan.
So, will these famed Tokyo-Neapolitan slices live up to the hype? First, a glance at the menu. There are around 12 pizzas categorised as either tomato or cheese-based, over 10 appetisers, desserts, coffee, and several cocktails crafted by Bar on 38.
While it’s not master pizzaiolo Tsubasa Tamaki who’ll be firing up slices over at the Singapore branch, he’s left the job to his trusted protégé, Ryosuke Tanahara, who’s trained under him for close to three years, and can replicate his elusive dough recipe to a tee.
Speaking of dough, PST employs a highly specific formula developed by Tamaki himself, using a proprietary blend of Canadian and American wheat flour milled in Japan. The dough is lightly fermented for 30 hours – unlike the 48-to-72-hour proofing periods commonly seen in other Italian restaurants – so it achieves a light, fluffy texture which pulls apart almost like mochi.
We sink our teeth into the Tamaki pizza ($29), a 12-inch classic topped with Datterini tomatoes, fresh smoked mozzarella, pecorino romano, and fresh basil. Despite being the most simply constructed of the pizzas we’ll be trying, it’s easily our favourite. The waiter gives us a much-needed tip: gently press down on the cherry tomatoes before eating. Doing so releases a fresh, fragrant waft of sweetness that greatly adds to the experience.
But what’s arguably better is the fine dusting of salt that we can distinctly taste on the crust. It turns out that the base of the woodfire oven is lightly seasoned with Okinawan salt for an added layer of umami. And if you prefer less char or salt on your pizzas, customisations are more than welcome.
The Bismarck ($32) that arrives soon after falls a tad short of expectations, with the Hinata egg cracked in the middle reaching us slightly underdone, but the spicy Arrabbiata ($30) quickly makes up for it. It’s got the same Datterini tomatoes, pork nduja, Aomori garlic, and calabria (chilli flakes) that are slow-dried in-house. Being the spice-lovers that we are, we’re glad to say this packs a punch.
The 5 Formaggi ($34) is equally well done, with a medley of smoked mozzarella, gorgonzola, taleggio, grana padano and mascarpone. The best part, though, is that the acacia honey, which at this point should be known as a mandatory pairing with cheese pizza, comes at no extra charge.
We also try several appetisers, from caramelised pumpkins with a balsamic reduction ($16) to Angus beef and pork meatballs in tomato sauce ($18) – all of which are decent but otherwise unmemorable. If you find yourself in the good graces of the reservation system and manage to snag a table, we’d say splash out on the pizzas instead. After all, there are 12 on the menu to sample, with nothing crossing the $40 mark.
Book a table at Pizza Studio Tamaki here.
Pizza Studio Tamaki opens on June 10 at 38 Tanjong Pagar Rd, Singapore 088461.
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