Fans of Sugarhall raised one last toast when the rum bar closed on July 26 this year. Word was that its parent company Jigger & Pony would, in collaboration with House of Suntory, transform the former speakeasy into a vibrant cocktail bar with Japanese influences. Enter Pop City X Pony.
Seasoned barflies and Sugarhall regulars will know their way around Cecil Street. But if it’s your first time, here’s a tip: skirt around the back of the restaurant Barrel: Story of Hibiki to reach a narrow back alley, spot the neon-pink signboard and head up to the second floor and through the unmarked black door.
Design buffs will marvel at the details that embellish the space, from couches fitted with textured kimono fabric to walls and ceilings lined with Japan’s iconic ichimatsu (checkerboard) pattern.
The room is intentionally – though not quite discernibly – divided into four zones, subtly altering your experience depending on where you plant yourself for the evening. Get close to the action and interact with the team at the bar counter, where an intricate hand-stitched byōbu (Japanese folding screen) serves as the backdrop. The Tasting Commons and After Hours Salon are ideal for group gatherings, with modular, interchangeable furniture that allows for flexible seating.
Bars within bars are becoming increasingly commonplace these days. At Pop City X Pony, you can book out a private session at the sectioned-off Bar Mixtape, a cosy nook fitted with its own mini bar, rare Hibiki bottles, and a listening corner with CD players and records.
If you’ve made your rounds at other Jigger & Pony concepts like Live Twice or Gibson, you’ll find the drinks at Pop City X Pony to be consistent with the brand’s style – deceptively simple and flawlessly balanced. The 18 cocktails on the menu span three sections, with ‘POP’ taking cues from Japanese pop culture and music, ‘CITY’ referencing Japanese aesthetics and fashion, and ‘Seasons In Motion’ offering two new creations each month inspired by Japan’s microseasons.
HØJ1CHA €SPR€$$Ø MART1N1 ($25), under ‘POP’, is a nod to the Japanese techno artist ¥ØU$UK€ ¥UK1MAT$U and an upgrade on the all-time bar favourite. Hojicha, coffee and mezcal give it its smoky, roasted profile, while a final dusting of raspberry powder cuts through the creaminess. You’ll also find a fresher, zestier version of Jigger & Pony’s yuzu whisky sour ($27), and a fruity, melon-forward sake martini ($24) in this section of the menu.
Matcha lovers can definitely get behind the Matcha Ramos Fizz ($27), the first drink under ‘CITY’. Think nostalgic cream soda from a kissaten meets a matcha latte, topped with a gorgeous foam crown that dissolves like a cloud of whisky. Meanwhile, savoury cocktail lovers should go for the Harajuku Mary ($27), an addictive concoction of vodka, tomato, lemon and celery bitters, with surprising hits of wasabi, tonkotsu and dashi for that lift of umami.
But our uncontested winner for the evening is the bar’s namesake Pop City Sour ($26), an excellent whisky sour that sips all too easily. Purple shiso and sour plum lend a subtle savoury touch that keeps you going back for more, while the frothy egg white layer adds structure and body. Highly crushable and definitely dangerous.
Don’t sleep on the seasonal tipples either. The Fuji Apple & Oyster Leaf Fizz ($26) is an interesting blend of two popular winter ingredients in Japan – except the oceanic taste of the mollusc is brought forth through an uncannily similar-tasting leaf. Strange, but wondrous. The faint scent of ‘oyster’ hits you at the beginning, while layers of honeyed sweetness from the Fuji apple emerge as you continue sipping. A light nibble of the parmesan chip garnish brings the flavour back to oyster and resets the whole experience.
Bar snacks at Pop City X Pony are designed to complement rather than overshadow. Graze on complimentary banana chips or munch on sharing portions of truffle edamame ($15) and wagyu fat fries ($15), both laced with shio kombu. Greasier izakaya staples like chicken karaage ($18) and teba-gyoza ($18) never fail to hit the spot, but for something even more substantial, order the pork katsu sando ($18) with shiso coleslaw, or go all out with a hearty bowl of tonkatsu ramen ($18).
Pop City X Pony is open Mondays to Saturdays from 5.30pm to midnight at 19 Cecil St, Level 2, Singapore 049704. Happy hour runs from 5.30pm to 8pm daily, with drinks starting from $14 and cocktails from $15. Reservations recommended.
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