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Summer has arrived – in Chef Julien Royer’s Odette, that is. Gone are the spring-coded pastel pink hues and cool-toned details that once spoke of restrained, quiet elegance. The restaurant's interiors have subtly evolved, now embracing warmer, earthier shades of ember, still largely anchored by the familiar soft beige palette and occasional pink accents.
The refreshed dining room is lofty and airy, with tables well-spaced so you get to enjoy some privacy without losing that sense of openness. Every seat is the best seat, our host tells us. Returning guests will notice that the long, double-layered tablecloths have been replaced with shorter single layers. It’s a small but telling shift, from stuffy fine-dining constraints to something more self-assured and relaxed. After all, this is Odette’s 10th year in the game.
Now look towards the centre of the restaurant. You’ll spot a new marble-topped wine counter, intentionally positioned there so almost every aspect of the wine experience is visible, right down to the opening of bottles. Then look up, and you’ll see the artificial skylight, bathing the room in sun-drenched comfort by day and a moonlit ambience by night. Or look around, to catch sight of those partitions that double up as sound-absorbing panels to keep noise at bay, alongside intricate paper sculptures by artist Dawn Ng, inspired by Chef Julien’s cooking.
We could go on about the aesthetics, but that’s not all that has changed at Odette. After a three-month hiatus last year, the restaurant reopened in December with not only an updated look, but a thoughtfully reworked menu. While staying true to its French roots, the experience is now gently infused with Asian influences. It’s only expected, given Chef Julien’s years spent in Asia, and Odette’s long tenure at the National Gallery. That said, beloved classics like the Kampot pepper-crusted pigeon and Jeju abalone and foie gras duo – more on this later – will remain.
The first signs of change emerge after the grinotages, bread platter and mushroom ‘tea’. The latter, an enduring favourite ten years on, is as excellent as ever, layered with texture and depth. Then comes the Hokkaido Botan Ebi. Alongside it, a Bafun uni ‘pain perdu’ with brown butter ‘ponzu’ melts effortlessly with a fresh burst of seawater. But the main event is the yuzu-kosho-glazed spot prawn, perched atop dashi jelly, crème fraîche and a generous serving of Maison Kaviari caviar. A cynic might dismiss the caviar as gratuitous luxury, but its brininess provides a much-needed contrast to the prawn’s sweetness.
Speaking of contrast, the next dish is a three-way preparation of Norwegian king crab, aptly titled Crab Contrast. Holding the French culinary fort are a tarragon-laced Béarnaise and Normandy brown crab remoulade. And rewriting the script: a fluffy chilli crab bun on the side, spiked with just enough heat to do the local icon justice.
Much of what follows is par for the course and reassuringly familiar. Succulent langoustine encased in silky dumpling skin arrives next, with thin sheets of peak-season Périgord truffles shaved deftly over our plates. The Jeju abalone and foie gras duo, dubbed Odette’s take on bak kut teh, is our favourite dish of the day. A heady aroma hits almost immediately, and as you sip on the warm pork broth, notes of shiitake and yuzu come into play, complemented by the buttery richness of the foie gras.
Compared to previous menus, flavours have been adjusted to feel noticeably lighter. If we were to nitpick, the Scottish blue lobster bucks that trend slightly, perhaps due to the sake beurre blanc beneath it, alongside torched greens that tip it towards the sweeter side.
This sweetness carries through to the final course of aged duck, accompanied by beetroot slices, cassis and ‘diable’ sauce, resulting in a main that feels more refreshing than savoury. What truly stands out, though, is the accompanying ‘duck rice’ – an addictive two-spoon portion where each grain is nicely separated, lightly coated in oil, and cooked and seasoned to perfection. We could happily devour bowls of this on its own.
It’s also here that we sample one of the drinks from Odette’s new Temperance Beverage Programme, a line-up of non-alcoholic drinks crafted with seasonal ingredients. We sip on the Beetroot, a labour-intensive pour that involves roasting, cooling and blending beetroot slices with koji to create an amazake, before resting, freezing and fine-straining it for clarity. The liquid is then cooked with thyme and pink peppercorns, and left to infuse for two days, resulting in a smoky and slightly savoury drink that pairs seamlessly with the duck.
Other offerings include a cold-brewed Li Shan Oolong to go with the Hokkaido Botan Ebi, and a Lapsang kombucha designed to match the heavier flavours of the Jeju abalone and foie gras. Of course, regular wine pairings remain available, with the cellar now expanded to house 1300 labels instead of the previous 1000.
And it goes without saying that no meal at Odette is complete without Pastry Chef Louisa Lim’s final acts, whether it’s her signature Loulou Lemon, or whichever edible artworks she chooses to present that day. We enjoy the Hazelnu-t-ella, featuring Piedmont hazelnut praliné with chestnut and rich Jivara chocolate. Even the pre-dessert palate cleanser and petit fours – especially those dense, crunchy canelles – are stellar.
For a restaurant like Odette, its reputation almost always precedes it. We recommend going in with your eyes open and expectations tempered. Because perhaps a three-Michelin-starred experience isn’t about having your jaw on the floor after every bite, but about the quiet confidence of an establishment that knows exactly what it’s doing and has nothing left to prove, or the sense of comfort that lingers even after you step out of the doors.
The restaurant offers a five-course Terre & Mer menu ($368 per person) for lunch, and a seven-course Epicure menu ($498 per person) for lunch and dinner. A seven-course Nature & Découverte vegetarian menu ($398 per person) is also available.
Odette is located at 1 St Andrew’s Road, National Gallery Singapore, Supreme Court Wing, #01-04, Singapore 178957. Opening hours are 6.30pm to 8.15pm on Mondays, and 12pm to 1.15pm and 6.30pm to 8.15pm from Tuesdays to Saturdays.
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