We tried the $88 tasting menu at Assaggi, the Italian restaurant everyone in Singapore is obsessed with right now

Getting a table at Assaggi right now feels like winning the lottery. Chef Denis Lucchi, the man behind one-Michelin-starred Buona Terra and Locanda, has clearly done something right. Because ever since the casual Italian spot on Neil Road opened for reservations in August, diners have been scrambling to snag a spot weeks in advance. 

First impressions: ring the doorbell and a staff member pops out through a little window at the door to greet you. Inside, it's warm and homey, a world away from Buona Terra's white starched tablecloths, or even Locanda's rustic interiors. Think a friend's cosy wood-furnished dining room, fitted with an open kitchen counter where all the action is at, and a curious soft-pop soundtrack where Maroon 5, Ed Sheeran and Michael Jackson tunes croon in the background. 

There's no need to agonise over what to order here. Only one set menu is served for lunch ($58 for three courses), and two at dinner ($88 for the six-course Pasta Journey or Signature Journey). We went with the Signature Journey for a taste of the full spread. Things kick off with a trio of snacks: a bright tomato tart, a savoury beef and mushroom toast, and a twist on the classic prosciutto e melone, swapping in coppa (shoulder meat) for the usual prosciutto. 

Then comes the internet-viral bread course. The showstopper is an eye-catching and seemingly bottomless bucket of whipped Beppino Occelli butter, spooned tableside and enjoyed along fluffy bread rolls glazed with acacia honey, balsamic reduction and duck fat. It is one of the better bread courses we've had in a while, though not quite the religious experience everyone on the internet claims it to be. You'll definitely need more than a serving of bread to get through the heap of butter served on the side.

Starters are solid. The veal eye round comes with a creamy tonnato sauce with artichokes and quail eggs (think fancy tuna egg mayo), while the octopus dish is simple but well-executed, with tender octopus chunks, potatoes, olives, capers and green beans for a fresh touch.

The real highlight is the pasta – chewy and al dente, with spot-on sauces. It's a tough fight between the fusilli with capsicum and red prawns, and the pappardelle with osobucco and gremolada, but the latter, which has a surprising cheesy hit, wins by a small margin. There's also a house-made chilli oil which you can use on the side. And if you like spice, we suggest being generous with it. Somehow, it manages to layer on just enough heat without taking away from the flavour of the pasta. 

If your appetite permits, the pork arrosticini is available as an add-on. But $18 for a slightly dry grilled pork skewer with sides of preserved cabbage and burnt apple purée is skippable in our books. As for the mains, a 14-to-20-day dry-aged serving of roasted duck is paired with orange blossom honey, sitting alongside cooked peaches and a fresh fennel salad. While the peach and duck combination works best, the orange blossom sauce is just a tad too sweet for our liking. There's also stone bass served with a traditional Italian mugnaia sauce and thin sheets of zucchini as an alternative.

Redemption comes in the form of pasta – which, at this point in the meal, is clearly the kitchen's strong suit. The shared paccheri, done amatriciana style, is served tableside, with lashings of cheese. Tip: a dash of chilli oil takes it to the next level. Desserts are equally delightful, and uncomplicated. We like the refreshing peach granita, and the vanilla ice cream-stuffed rum baba that follows is the perfect ending. 

Drinks-wise, it's worth taking a gander at the small cocktail list curated by Japanese speakeasy Bar Kakure – Buona Terra's neighbour along Scotts Road. There are creations like the Assaggi Negroni, Paloma, Sicilian Spritz, Old Fashioned and Espresso Martini, all priced competitively at $18. And for wine lovers, there's a decent range of natural and biodynamic bottles from small producers. Make things interesting by opting to drink out of handmade clay vessels crafted by a local ceramicist instead of the usual fancy stemware – a nod to the traditional way of drinking wine dating back to the Roman Empire.

Time Out's rating: 4/5

While we're not sure if Assaggi is worth the month-long waitlist, there are certainly more hits than misses. Pasta is definitely the kitchen's main strength, and we'll remember the osobucco pappardelle, red prawn fusilli and amatriciana paccheri for a long time. Plus points go to the bread and butter course, cosy setting, unpretentious service, and of course, the sub-$100 bill for a substantial tasting menu, which is pretty much impossible to find these days. The $58 Express Lunch works if you're tight on time, but we highly suggest dropping by for dinner instead. And if you do, the Pasta Journey is the way to go.

Assaggi is open from Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 3pm and 6pm to 10.30pm at 77A Neil Road, Singapore 088903.

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