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Kueh
Photograph: ShutterstockKueh

Makan spotlight: Kueh

Small in size, huge in flavour and heritage

Fabian Loo
Written by
Fabian Loo
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Kueh can be many things. It can come sweet or savoury. It can be enjoyed as a snack or dessert. It can come in circles, or squares, or any shape under the sun. A piece of kueh can be painstakingly made from time-honoured recipes or modernised using unconventional ingredients and transformed into new desserts.

This colourful, bite-sized snack has its roots in various Southeast Asian cultures. You’ll find variants of kueh in Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Peranakan communities – each unique in its own way. 

“Kueh has such a great social and cultural significance,” shares Christopher Tan, a writer who turned his love for kueh into a recipe book, The Way of Kueh. In it, he explores Singapore’s diverse kueh culture, chatting with respected kueh makers about the art form and teaching readers how to recreate them at home.

RECOMMENDED: Meet the people preserving a piece of our kueh heritage

Bite-sized heritage

  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Queenstown

Ang ku kueh, which translates to red tortoiseshell cake, is a common Chinese confectionery that’s often consumed for luck and longevity. It is typically filled with sweetened mung bean or ground peanuts, but today, you can find flavours of mango, green tea and even durian at Poh Cheu Kitchen. The store has been steaming ang ku kueh since 1985, and is currently helmed by third-generation owner, Jerome Ng, who hopes to further his family’s business and appeal to a wider audience.

  • Restaurants
  • Bakeries
  • Tiong Bahru

Peranakans are also famous for their colourful kueh creations. For over 18 years, Tiong Bahru Galicier Pastry has been lining its shelves with homemade treats that include the popular ondeh ondeh or rice balls filled with a liquid palm sugar centre, kueh salat (glutinous rice with coconut custard) and kueh dadar (rolled pancakes with grated coconut and palm sugar or gula Melaka). You can also add on to the basket with classic pandan cake, assorted chiffon cakes, tarts, cookies and pastries.

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  • Restaurants
  • Malay
  • Geylang

For more treats, join the lines at Hjh Maimunah, an eatery that earned a spot on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list 2019. Besides feasting on its famed nasi padang (steamed rice served with various side dishes), save some space for its section of freshly made Malay kueh. Depending on when you visit, look forward to kueh lapis (layered cake), wajik (glutinous rice cooked in palm sugar) and pulut panggang (glutinous rice wrapped with sambal).

A kueh-naissance

  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Clementi

Beyond the classics, a handful of eateries have also given the kueh a makeover. Instead of the usual turnip filling, One Kueh at a Time owners Nick Soon and Karen Kuah wrap each soon kueh (steamed dumpling) with unusual ingredients of beetroot and salty-sweet bak kwa (barbecued pork), breathing new life to the humble snack.

  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Tanjong Pagar

For young hawker Elizabeth Chan, she presses ang ku kueh into shapes of teddy bears and koi fishes at Kueh Ho Jiak, using sweet potato to create adorable variants of the traditional treat. “We hope to pass down the heritage of kueh by appealing to the younger generation and making them more playful”, she shares. At the stall, you'll find colourful balls of ondeh ondeh ($3), rice kueh in a rare hue of orange ($3), and even ang ku kueh with unique fillings of cempedek ($2) and spicy shrimp ($2).

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