When you want elegant Greek food in the city you go to Alpha. If you want fun and fancy drinks and a two-person moussaka, then you need to slip up the stairway off to one side of the restaurant and head up to Beta, the cocktail bar they’ve opened upstairs.
It’s a slightly odd space, all soaring ceilings and chipped brick walls. It almost feels like you’re in a secret enclave, keeping your carousing hidden from the fun police, who might want to get between you and the boozy citrus wave of the Avra – a restrained mix of Canadian Club rye with blood orange, sweet vermouth and bitters that is as balanced as a seasoned tightrope walker.
If Disney princesses drank cocktails the Tartara would be top of their lists – and not just because it comes in a coupe with a thick marble stem like some sort of enchanted chalice. They mix chamomile syrup, lemon juice and a little bitter herbal kick from Tonka beans (we promise they’re not toxic in these quantities) with vodka, and then add a statement cap of Cointreau foam. The result is as light and fluffy as a cloud and as fragrant as a citrus orchard in bloom.
Maybe you have no time for frippery when it comes to drinks; so just order an ouzo and be done with it. You’ll feel like a king with a gold trimmed glass of aniseed liquor in your hand, and like a wizard when you add water or ice and watch your drink turn a milky blue.
We're suprised how few Greek wines are on offer. There’re four on the list at our count and none of those come by the glass. Opt instead for a bottle of Blue Mak, Fix Hellas or White Donkey beer for Mediterranean flavours.
You might only be here for a drink but you’ll probably change your mind when you see a charred, smoky leg of octopus sail past with an earthy split pea dip and a wedge of orange to squeeze over the top. Even if you’re full, it’s worth decorating your table with a bowl of the crisp-but-not-tooth-endangering fried chickpeas with chilli and oregano.
At the total other end of the scale, there is no question the moussaka is a two-person job. The round base of an eggplant stuffed with tender ribbons of lamb, capped with a baked yoghurt that tastes like a golden cheese soufflé and drenched in a rich tomato sauce will cost you $28, which when halved makes for a very cheap dinner in fancy digs.
Beta is definitely going for that up-market, inner city vibe. They run a tight ship with table service from the willowy staff; crowd-pleasing pop on the speakers suspended from the ceiling; and snacks that are punching well above their weight thanks to the impressive kitchen downstairs. It’s not exactly a destination bar, but for a classy hideout it’s on the money.