Balmain and Rozelle have more than their fair share of old-man pubs, back-street locals and old wharfie haunts. But as the demographic becomes less blue collar and more blue Mercedes, a lot of the old watering holes have pulled up their socks and started catering to an upmarket crowd. And leading the pack is the Riverview Hotel. Its charcoal paint job and glossy red doors are straight out of picture-book England, and the warm glow from the fire draws people in from the in-no-way-mean streets of the Inner West. On any day but Sunday it’s hard to beat a good pub pie; but here they are flipping the beef and Guinness standard on its head and serving up a lamb shank pie paired wuth a heavenly carrot puree, some broccolini and topped with a rosemary jus. Of course, on the day of rest, it’s all about the Sunday beef roast, with Yorkshire pudding and all the trimmings for $25. Or you can indulge in a high tea on Saturday arvo for $45, which includes a premium selection of three savoury and sweet treats each. Think delicate sandwiches and homemade scones. Upstairs is a restaurant that does a three-course set menu for $70. This is also where you can take a crack at some of the more expensive drops that are stored in the floor-to-ceiling wine racks at the foot of the stairs. For the rest of the hoi poloi downstairs the wine list is kept short and sweet, averaging out at about $9 a glass. The Argentinean Catena Alamos malbec is the kind of wine you’ll want to keep close all evening, or if you need the cleansing power of a craft brew they have the crisp, fruity Kosciuszko pale ale as well as the locavore-friendly Balmain Pilsner on tap.